It was so good to be back!

Having been back in the UK for around 6 months, we were delighted to be underway once more to our favourite little village in Andalucia. We took our time driving down, first stop L'Isle Bouchard in the Loire Valley - a tiny island in the middle of the Loire River. No sooner had we arrived and Michael invited our host to join us in the bar next door for a much desired refreshing beer after our journey of around 11 hours - and to celebrate the start of our holiday! Conversation proved more successful than I had anticipated. Quickly abandoning English, of which Jose appeared to only have a handful of words which matched my schoolgirl French, we settled on the common language between us of Spanish - Jose is Cuban! He was a great guy and when we left a couple of days' later gave us 2 bottles of local wine - a French custom perhaps? I was under the impression it was for guests to tip the host!

From the website description, I had conjured up images of a little house set beside the river, buried in the heart of the countryside. We had a delightful room with doors opening onto a terrace that led down to the river. True - what we hadn't bargained on was the bridge that joined this little island to the 'mainland' being right outside our room! With only lightweight net curtains at the french doors, we were, by night, frequently under the glare of headlights!! Images of petrified rabbits sitting in the middle of the road in the glare of headlights came to mind! Apart from that drawback we were so comfortable and Jose such a good host and as long as we remembered to switch off lights before de-robing to get ready for bed we were fine and no distraction to oncoming motorists - at least I wasn't aware of any vehicle veering over the bridge and into the fast flowing river below!

By contrast to our previous visit to the Loire exactly 2 years ago, we were blessed with temperate weather and able to explore L'Isle Bouchard




and visit the fairy tale castle in Usse - my very first Loire chateau which held the tantalising promise of so much more to explore in this lovely area of France and its many chateaux.



Much of the castle is still lived in but we had access to just enough to give us a glimpse of life surrounded by such grandeur and the opportunity to climb the 'Sleeping Beauty' tower and enjoy the beautiful manicured gardens and fountains spread out below and magnificent views across the French countryside - quite breathtaking. I wonder if the inhabitants truly appreciate what they see every day around them.



We savoured the most delicious French home cooking in a little family run hotel and were so busy chatting with fellow diners on our final evening there, we didn't notice how late it was getting until the owner advised us if we were walking back, the street lamps were going out in 5 minutes plunging the little streets into darkness - well, that's one way of shifting lingering diners!

The following day we were heading down to Burgos - a charming medieval town, founded in 884, dominated by its gothic cathedral and our hotel was directly opposite with the most splendid view of the cathedral from our breakfast table!





Our hotel

We had a little time that evening to spend in Burgos and enjoy a leisurely evening meal, still just warm enough to dine al fresco with a great added bonus for me - a lengthy conversation with the waitress in Spanish so my efforts this time last year in Seville on that intensive language course did pay off, even after these months back in the UK!

After breakfast the following morning we were on the road again - final leg - to El Higueral. The Spanish certainly have some novel ideas when it comes to health and safety around roadworks - coming across some on the highway we noticed a figure clad in yellow along with yellow safety helmet waving a red warning flag - as we neared the figure we realised of all things we were looking at a mechanical mannequin!! Saves on labour costs I guess added to which no loss of life if he gets knocked over doing his duty! Quite bizarre.

A total of 1,500 miles on, we finally arrived in El Higueral early evening with such a warm welcome from our dear friends from the UK already ensconced in their home where we were to be staying for the next 3+ weeks. With supper ready on the roof terrace, with those now so familiar views before us,


temperatures way higher than we'd left behind back home and plenty of vino we settled down relishing being back where we feel has now become our second home!

Our three+ weeks simply flew by. Friends of J&P's came out for a long weekend and we had such fun with them visiting the local fruit and veg market, chilling out, an evening dip in the lake, suppers on the terrace each evening washed down with plenty of alcohol! Then there was the 3 day fiesta in the village and it was just as much fun and entertaining as last year with the bonus of wonderfully warm and sunny weather this year which made for a much more successful time for everyone. Like last year, the fiesta began on the Friday evening with Mass in the local church followed by the candlelit procession around the village accompanied by the band.



Every night was dancing to live music until day break (including some pretty crazy, cheeky group dances - pics censored folks!). Here's Jane and I enjoying churros and chocolate at around 5 a.m. The best way to enjoy churros (fried dough pastry) are when dunked into thick, steamy hot chocolate - and highly recommended in the early hours to soak up some of the alcohol!



There always seemed to be some event or other going on during the day including cycle, motorbike, horse and wheel-barrow races (this is the mayoress and deputy mayoress being pushed up the street so there's no limit to who participates!)



There was the annual 'platos de tipicos' competition where all entries are placed on long trestle tables and at the given word, as soon as everyone has their plastic fork, the tastings begin - forget health & hygiene rules folks!

: Setting up the platos de tipicos


This was my entry thanks to a good friend in the village (thanks Julia!) - I discovered it's not possible to buy double cream but thankfully Julia had a pot stashed away from a shopping trip to the coast so I was able to rescue my log cake after all! We were all presented with a set of glass sundae glasses for our efforts.

A couple of days after the fiesta, Sam flew over for the wedding of a good friend of his and to which both he and we had been invited so early on the Saturday morning we were off to Los Alcazares near Murcia for the weekend. With just enough time to grab a bite of lunch and change we waited for the little 'train' that was trundling round collecting members of the wedding party and guests from their various homes/hotels -



except Michael and I were deprived of the ride that would surely evoke nostalgic childhood memories when the heel of my shoe broke and I had to hippity hop back to the hotel for a quick change and taxi for us along with the risk of arriving late! We needn't have worried - the clutch on the train went and came limping in as we drew up in our taxi!

The wedding took place in an old converted Spanish house now a small hotel with a beautiful inner patio courtyard as is so typical of these houses.





It was a beautiful ceremony accompanied by a small Spanish choir then it was champagne by the beach,


followed by the wedding breakfast which took place on a pontoon just a few yards further along before the partying got under way!



What an absolutely stunningly beautiful and romantic setting under blue skies, sunshine and 40 degree temperatures! The following morning we all gathered for brunch on the beach - and yes, I think everyone managed to surface after the celebrations the night before!

We motored back to the village Monday morning with one more day to enjoy Sam's company before he headed back to the UK



We then had a few days left to ourselves, one of which was spent exploring the fascinating Madinat al-Zahra, an Arab Muslim town located just outside Cordoba and considered one of the most important medieval archaeological sites in Europe - a site of 112 hectares with only around a tenth excavated to date. Madinat al-Zahra flourished for only approximately 80 years. An impressive series of palaces and gardens built by caliph Abd ar-Rahman III of Cordoba in the mid 900's to show his subjects and the world his power. After the dissolution of the Caliphate of Cordoba during the civil war Madinat al-Zahra was effectively wiped off the map for a millennium.













Sadly, exposure on such a vast site in 40 degrees of heat got the better of us so we will return another day in cooler weather!

It felt we'd hardly arrived in El Higueral and we were packing up again for our return drive home. Having just about filled every space in the vehicle, we received a request from Sam the night before we left: had we any bottle-shaped spaces left in which to fit some bubbly? (Birthday bash coming up!) So it was the following morning we found ourselves clearing the local supermarket shelves of their entire stock of 20 bottles - at 1.65 euros per bottle who could resist!!

Our first stopover was Segovia, a truly delightful Castillan town, over 3,200' above sea level, with narrow winding pedestrianised streets, intricate and fascinating detail on just about every building. Its tremendous aqueduct - built during the second half of the 1st century - reaches skyward for an incredible 93' and at first sight was quite overwhelming, towering over us as it did (and the city!). From the top it stretched out before us reminding me of a great silent giant throwing its bold shadows out across the city below. It seemed quite out of proportion to the rest of the city and what a remarkable feat of engineering so many, many centuries ago.







We were delighted with the hotel we had booked - it stood in the main plaza in the heart of Segovia so we were well placed to explore the best Segovia has to offer during the few hours we were there - though I know we must have missed the smaller hidden gems Segovia must surely hold and only to be discovered with time to wander and linger - sadly no such opportunity for us this time but a real 'must' to visit again. As it was we couldn't tear ourselves away until lunchtime the next day.

The Cathedral







The Alcazar










The oldest gateway in the city

"Salut!"


Our later departure from Segovia meant it was evening before we reached Arcachon (near Rochelle) - a delightful little seaside town with the quaintest individually designed houses that left me feeling I'd landed right in the heart of Hansel & Gretel country! Arcachon also boasts the largest sand dune in Europe but we'd forgotten our sandboards!



All that aside, our hearts sank as we drove up to our next hotel - there was no mistaking this one! there were two large bright yellow neon arrows flashing the name either side of the building and as if they weren't sufficient, to add to the illuminations, a bright pink neon strip ran around the entire roof line of the main building and the single story 'annexe'. This was somewhat in contrast to the beautiful majestic old hotel in Segovia! With thoughts of what might lie the other side of the front door we briefly considered driving on. However, having booked and paid in advance and, after all, only requiring a bed for the night, we ventured forth. It was all pretty normal, rather dark and pokey and if our room had been any smaller we would have had to launch ourselves from the doorway onto the bed - and thenceforth to the 'en suite'! However, one can only see the funny side of such a situation so, ignoring the bottle of water with 2 accompanying plastic cups carrying a 1.50 euro price tag, we dumped our overnight bag and made a hasty exit from the hotel in search of somewhere for supper. Not in the mood for the rather extravagant and plush restaurants along the seafront, we settled for the pizzeria which was pleasant enough and then enjoyed a moonlight walk along the sands of the sweeping bay before retiring.

The following morning, we decided against chancing breakfast in the hotel and after an early morning stroll to the shore once more, we were under way again.


The promise of a beautiful day....



Super model ?



Our final stop-over was the medieval walled town of Montreuil-Sur-Mer with its old houses, picturesque cobbled streets



and imposing ramparts:


I was particularly keen to visit this French town being the first place of rest for my father and his regiment during a 45 Km march, having been captured by the Germans at the start of the Second World War.

We so enjoyed our walk around the 3 Km wall of Montreuil, feasting our eyes over the French landscape sprawling out in front of us and dipping down into the little streets here and there when the fancy took us



We visited the 16th century citadel. It was a creepy experience descending the dark damp stairway to the underground rooms in which Sir Douglas Haig set up his headquarters during the First World War. The recorded playing of the sound of gunfire and tap tap of the Morse machines gave an eerie tangible edge to the atmosphere of these underground rooms.

The Citadel







It was a fascinating day exploring this charming old town with time to sit and contemplate and watch the world of Montreuil go by over a glass or two of vino!



Reflections from our hotel room



Sad though it was, we were heading off for Calais and the channel tunnel on the final leg the following morning. As we emerged onto English soil the sun was shining, the sky blue and an enveloping autumnal warmth hung in the air - we felt very content and happy that we'd certainly made the most of our time away. And to those good friends we've left behind: "adios, hasta que nos encontremos otro vez"

Sun baked to saturated

At the beginning of October we left the sun baked landscape of this little corner of Andalucia and have returned to a land saturated by weeks of torrential rain. Though there is little of it in these parts, where the land does lie flat water is lying on the surface unable to soak any further into the totally saturated ground. Muddied water courses down through the narrow ravines cut through the steep olive groves; the previously dried up streams are now full of gushing muddy water; the deep roadside gutters are full of tumbling, bubbling dirty water - and still the rain falls in stair rods! The state of the roads brings back memories of our first arrival here last January when we had to avoid mud slides and stop here and there to clear the larger rocks off the road in order to pass. The level of the lake at Iznajar has not been so high for some years so perhaps we might even see the return of water sports this summer and the little bridge spanning the narrow end of the lake which last year stood over dry ground is now virtually completely under water. Most frustratingly for the folks around here, the olive harvest is very much hampered by this prolonged and unusual wet weather and even when the rain ceases it must be a nightmare trying to harvest olives from trees in such sodden sticky ground. Then suddenly, just for a couple of days we have a reprieve as the grey skies and low cloud (at times virtually prohibiting anything more than minimal visibility) are replaced with clear skies and very welcome sunshine - temperatures soar and the hours spent curled up in front of the cosy log fire with a good book (or studying Spanish!) are exchanged for relaxing on the roof terrace bathing under the hot sunshine. We've also had one day when the snow fell in big soft tumbling flakes the entire day. To us more fortunate not to have the weather cause us any more than mere inconvenience and the feeling we're being robbed of a few more hours sunshine, it matters not. It's so good to be back in this lovely little village we've come to think of as another home, with such a warm and genuine welcome from the folks we've come to know during the last 12 months here.

We've taken up lessons again with our Spanish teacher and joined the local gym this time around - a newish facility which will serve us well - though not so sure about the shower facility. After our first workout yesterday I discovered that in place of the warm shower cubicles that we've become so used to back home was a row of shower heads set along a long wall within an open area very well ventilated by a row of open windows! Maybe with a view to the hot summer days to come? Maybe the Spanish are tougher than I but I chickened out of that final challenge of the session! Michael however (proving his manhood maybe?) determined he would take a shower - sheepishly reappearing all too soon to possibly have showered - seems the cold water only showers proved just too much!

Already two weeks have flown by and we continue to hope for sufficiently clement weather that will allow us to do a little exploring during the remaining three weeks before we head back again to the UK. Even the dreariest weather cannot thwart the hints of the promise of spring just around the corner and the uplifting of the spirits when one sees the early almond trees already heavy with blossom.

I am visiting our neighbours, Maria and Isidro, across the street who makes me feel so very welcome and Maria is so patient with me as we 'converse' in Spanish. On my previous visits during last summer we would sit in the cool of their beautiful lounge surrounded by family photos, beautiful paintings, exquisite china ornaments - a room that gives so much away of these two lovely people. On my first visit last week I was ushered into a much smaller room, very simply furnished, at the back of the house: walls bare of pictures, a large log burner in the corner, a TV and comfy seats placed around a round wooden table draped with a heavy damask tablecloth reaching to the floor. Once seated, Maria lifted the excess of the tablecloth up onto my lap and as she did so I felt such warmth coming from under the table - no wonder! There underneath the table was a pail of red hot burning coals - the cinders from the log burner. ho's not heard of recycling!! This is apparently the custom in most of these houses during the cold days - might sound a bit querky but brilliantly effective! I've since discovered that in the absence of a pail of hot ashes, they might even use a small electric radiator! It is not very common to find central heating as we know it in the UK in these village houses. Perhaps some of the grander properties might have an air con/CH combo system but they are very expensive to run.

So I look forward to my chats with Maria and sharing the cosy warmth of that little room with its pail of hot coals under the table!

"I Love You Sevilla" !!

If ever I wished for the gift of an accomplished writer it's now - to be able to draw the reader into our experiences and memories of those 6 weeks in Sevilla. With simply no time for updating blogs whilst in Sevilla I sit here with my recollections whilst looking out over thick snow and sub zero temperatures in chilly England!! I can only hope my I attempt to write this now plus a few pics will at least give you a taste of the joys of this wonderful city that has, I believe, forever captured a special place in our hearts.

Our little apartment, part of the ground floor of a town house nestled in one of the tiny back streets in the Macarena district, did in fact serve us very well once we came to terms with it's limitations and in the short space of 6 weeks it felt like leaving home when we left.


As a driver of many years now I still find myself avoiding at all costs having to park alongside the kerb unless I've at least 3 car lengths to play with - I'd have had no trouble in Sevilla! I honestly don't think we ever saw a car without dents, scratches, and bits hanging off! Road side parking space is at a premium because the price of garages is so high. We watched incredulously as a driver bumped his way back and forth until he had squeezed his car into the space between two cars. On another occasion we watched the red car (see below) pull up in front of the white van line and reverse into it - which shunted all the other cars into each other - it was like watching a comedy film - except this was actually happening in front of our eyes!! (Note the little white car behind the van - rather looks he'll have to unhook himself from the van's back foot plate before he goes anywhere!)

We discovered later that most drivers leave the car in neutral with the brake off which allows them to nudge each other out the way when they want to get in and out!! No wonder they say either rent a car or make sure you've got secure parking when you visit Sevilla!!! I'll never worry about road side parking again - even I could do a better job than this!

Macarena is decidedly working class and proletariat - giving it a very authentic feeling - light years away from the tourist economy of the other districts - and home to the Virgin la Macarena de Esperanza with a church dedicated to her. A most beautiful church and where, one Sunday morning, we lingered with those standing at the back and drifting in and out for part of the service behind those sitting through the full service. Growing up very much a non-conformist and much later in life becoming a Christian and member of a Free Church, I have to admit to always being very dismissive of all the trappings and hierarchy of the Church of England. Though of course Spain is predominantly Catholic, the experience of visiting these churches, witnessing their fiestas and being absorbed into their way of life, truly is making me give very serious thought to what I am beginning to believe are very mis-placed judgements on my part.



Behind us was the famous Calle Feria (Feria Street) with the cavernous indoor daily market offering a huge selection of fresh fish, fruit and veg, flowers, cured meats, cheeses and so much more - in fact everything you could ever want for the food table - and where most of ours came from - and added those extra pounds so difficult to shift later on!! The famous Thursday market 'El Jueves' - the oldest market in Sevilla - is very popular with antique fans and where one can find anything from religious art to the most unusual door knobs and electronic goods - it was absolutely fascinating ferreting around this one!





Emerging from the rabbit warren of the streets in Macarena brought us out into the Alameda de Hercules - a long, wide tree-lined boulevard full of busy bars and cafes, areas of water jets creating a cooling mist, buskers and lively clubs at night.


There were all sorts of activities going on this area particularly during the weekends like the huge communal paellas


and children's entertainment and activities - even the Spanish version of Punch and Judy!
It was also a place where young people in particular were free to demonstrate their causes (always very peacefully). The toughest to witness was the one held to raise the awareness of the appalling level of domestic violence in Spain and the harsh impact of the symbol they used to get their message across - a huge pile of plumped up black bin liners, each one labelled with the name, date of birth and city of residence representing someone who had died as a result of domestic violence - it was hard-hitting and desperately sad to see.
On a much lighter note there were music events and one particular evening an amazing rock band playing in support of Amnesty International.
Following the Madruga fiesta early in December (see below) stalls selling wares and gifts from a number of Latin American countries were set up and remained at least until we left - I guess they were there until Christmas.

The Alameda, marked at each end with two Romanesque statues,



links the Macarena district to the streets that then lead to the huge shopping centre - with its simple yet very effective Christmas illuminations



and myriad of wonderful shoe shops that bring shoppers from all around Europe - and into the heart of the historic city centre where we spent so much of our time - day and night!




With the approach of Christmas it was a magical place to be this time of year - not a drop of tinsel in sight but all the hundreds of orange trees lining the streets and in the plazas alongside the towering palm trees were covered in tiny little twinkling lights at night and the tempting smell of roasting chestnuts wafting by just too much to resist and we weren't disappointed!






The seemingly never-ending rows of cabin stalls selling every item conceivable for folks to build not just nativity scenes but entire towns with surrounding countryside were always busy with shoppers making their selections. The nativity scene (Belen) has special significance in Spain where organisations and families create elaborate re-creations of the scene of Jesus' birth. These Belens are erected in churches, city buildings, stores and more modest ones in houses - and attract hundreds of people waiting patiently for their turn to visit and admire these amazing creations - not a Father Christmas in sight - except the occasional little one clutching onto a balcony here and there but no visits to Father Christmas - only the Belens. With so much to enjoy and even more buskers and street entertainers than usual everywhere, day and night, was buzzing with the excited chatter of everyone out enjoying themselves and sitting both inside and outside the hundreds of cafes, bars and restaurants where chairs and tables continue to spill out onto the pavements and plazas all through the winter - only during siesta time did the city fall into quiet for a short while.

We were privileged to be there for the fiesta to celebrate the Virgin Mary - 'The Madruga' - streets thronging with onlookers and joining in the candlelit procession as it wound its way slowing through the streets to the church beside the cathedral accompanied by the traditional brass band.



The four week intensive language course was much more of a challenge than even I'd anticipated! I became more and more despondent and frustrated as my listening/spoken Spanish lagged further behind my written/reading ability. However I managed to convert the final three days of the last week into 1:1 conversation only lessons which proved to be an excellent move and brought my morale back to where it had been before plummeting to the depths!! The icing on the top of the cake was when the taxi driver who took us from Malaga rail station to the airport on our journey home paid me a very welcome compliment on my Spanish having conversed with him throughout the journey! As hoped, I did make some very good friends and am keeping in touch with an Italian who lives in Rome and an American who comes from New Orleans who've both offered genuine invitations to visit whenever we wish.

The language school also arranged a couple of cultural events each week, one of which was a taster of Flamenco dancing - to which Michael was also very welcome which is how we came to be taking Flamenco dance lessons from one of the top dance teachers in the Sevilla Conservatoire! We so enjoyed the taster lesson we asked Carmen if she would consider giving us a few 1:1 lessons - and she agreed! I think she rather enjoyed the challenge of taking on two 'pensionistas'! She invited us to go along to the Dance Conservatoire and sit in on one one of her dance classes - it was splendid and a rare privilege watching her in action and the dancers who after the end of the current term will progress to university to study the theory before becoming professional dancers. Then it was our turn - a slight difference in tempo and style but Carmen was super fun and so very patient and encouraging. We managed to fit in 5 lessons which has given us the basic steps and movements to allow us to break into a little improvised Flamenco of our own whenever we have the opportunity in the various little friendly bars where Flamenco music is played and where folks dance as the fancy takes them. We never managed to locate such a bar before our departure but that's for the next visit - and after lots more practise!

Dance Conservatoire & Michael very much enjoying his dance lesson!!




Without school to attend during the final two weeks (apart from our customary three times a week sessions in the gym and dance lessons) we were free to do just what we wished - and we filled these days from the moment we got up in the morning to retiring very late at night - not even time for siestas!! Visiting the historic monuments, art galleries, an exhibition on photography through the years, enjoying wandering around the areas beyond the city centre and across the river, relaxing in the Marie Louisa park still abundant with the vibrant colours of bougainvilla against the autumnal colours of the trees



and of course many opportunities for al fresco dining and drinking plus picnic lunches.

What more can I say? It was a sad day that we packed up and closed the door on our little apartment - thank you Coral and Fernando. We hold and treasure some wonderful moments and memories of our stay, made all the more special because of the time of year.

There's never one when you want one - now they're parked as far as the eye can see ...........
- this was a day long strike by all Sevilla's taxi drivers


Enjoying an early evening walk along the river


Plaza del Cabildo (city centre)



The Plaza de Espana, though splendid by day, is eerily beautiful by night ~




One of the Plaza de Espana towers:



Mudejar Pavilion and Plateresque Pavilion, Maria Louisa Park



Bell Tower of St Anne's Church - one of the oldest churches in Sevilla


The monastery of Santa Maria de las Cuevas - Isla of Cartuja
- 'Sitting comfortably' (or just a frustrated tree climber??!)



- the monastery of Santa Maria de las Cuevas


Spires


Still working on why I like this one....


I really don't think it's THAT cold today!

Back to school ......

.......and it's great! I didn't give much thought to how I would react to all this. Now I'm plunged in the midst of studying Spanish in a school in the heart of Sevilla I have to admit it feels completely surreal - and wonderful - what a privilege and amazing experience! School is 09.30 - 13.30 Monday to Friday with 2 breaks - the first taken up with a much needed boost of caffeine in the bar downstairs followed by a spot of sunshine on the school's roof terrace - from where we can see across to the cathedral and down to the hustle and bustle of the streets below. A small friendly school, excellent tutors and some interesting classmates - American, Italian, German, Danish, Portuguese ....... I seem to be the sole English student but a max of 10 students at any one time. This is surely going to be real challenge - the entire lesson is delivered in Spanish and I'm not that conversant with the language yet - that's why I'm here!!! Should be very interesting .......................


As I walk to school each morning Sevilla is only just waking up and by the time I return, most of the shops have closed again and workshops hidden behind closed doors for siesta time (makes light on the purse!). Everything comes to life again in the evening and tonight we stumbled across a couple of workshops with the most exquisite pieces of work in the making - and some completed pieces of stunningly beautiful stained glass. Optimistically, I enquired if any of the pieces were 'se vende' (for sale) sadly to be told they were not - though I guess such items in hand baggage might create a challenge at check-in at the airport! Then there were the silversmiths busy restoring and creating some amazing pieces of work - commissions from the local churches. There's such buzz in this area with its old town character and sizzling nightlife.

Sevilla for 6 weeks - hooray!!

Having spent 3 very hectic but immensely enjoyable weeks back in the UK staying with and visiting friends and family we flew back to Spain for our 6 week stay in Sevilla on 31st October. We were booked on the 6 a.m. flight to Malaga in order to give us plenty of time to navigate our way to the main line station in the centre of Malaga to catch the train to Sevilla - a two and a half hour journey - then the final leg by taxi to our apartment in the Macarena quarter of Sevilla -the northern area of the old town. All went swimmingly smoothly except for the one and a half hour flight delay due to a computer malfunction prior to take off which meant losing the tug facility and our take-off slot. Fortunately we had a gem of a captain with a quirky sense of humour who eased the long wait with his quips, invites to the cock-pit, offers of drinks and cold snacks and use of mobile phones until we received clearance. Malaga train station was housed inside a huge bright and modern shopping mall with a very pleasant restaurant where we enjoyed some tapas and vino which, along with a little shopping, helped while away the 2 hours before our train was due. Super efficient rail service which somehow takes so much of the strain out of travelling which meant at the end of a total of 13 hours travelling we were still feeling pretty bright and breezy.

The taxi driver dropped us and our luggage off outside the address we had given him and drove off - a house sited in one of the typical back streets of the city with extremes of beautifully tiled/balconied houses to the more rundown neglected interspersed with those little essential grocery shops - including would you believe Lidl!! Everything looking so unfamiliar and anonymous at that moment and standing on the pavement outside No. 41, I took reassurance from the phone call I'd made from Sevilla train station to a number we'd been given and hoped we'd have a response to the intercom at the front door! The final bit of our journey and the door was opened. We were lead down a long corridor to our ground floor apartment at the back of the house - suitably described as 'student style' I believe!! Very small (compact I think is the word) and basic but clean. You know the score perhaps: a shower that manages to deposit more water on the bathroom floor than in the shower tray; 1 towel each; 3 plastic folding chairs and table in the lounge/diner and a small TV for Spanish channels only and another item of furniture that goes under the description of 'sofa'; a small 'fully equipped' kitchen which means it comes with washing machine (as yet to be tried and tested!), 2 small hob plates and a microwave (no grill or oven) so a quick review of our cooking habits required here, and sufficient crocks, pans etc. But, we have an enormous fridge/freezer - quite bizarre in the circumstances - but due to lack of cupboard space most useful for items one would not usually choose to refrigerate!! Then of course we have our little 'patio' - bedroom, lounge and kitchen are built around the tiny patio - from where we get our only daylight into the apartment and by peering up 3 storeys high and looking up at the little square patch of visible sky we find out what the weather is doing (though who'd be silly enough to think it's doing anything but sunshine and blue skies here!) After a swift and necessary readjustment of expectations and a few chuckles, we decided it would do us fine for our 6 weeks - I know we'll be very happy here - who wouldn't be in this amazing, wondeful, incredible city?

Yesterday (Sunday), map in hand, we checked out the route to the language school and found it tucked right inside the heart of cafes and bars just a stone's throw from the cathedral - what a location! The school is located in an old converted Spanish house around a 20 min walk from the apartment with so much to see and enjoy en route including, in contrast to these back streets and just around the corner from here, a modern, up-market tree-lined avenue with fountains, colourful children's play areas with a miriad of cafes and bars. As we made our way to the centre we could hear the faint strains of one of my favourite pieces of classical music and to my absolute delight we came upon 2 lads playing the violin and the cello accompanied by pre-recorded piano music - it was as if someone had given them my list of favourite pieces as we stood and listened - I couldn't tear myself away. It was the typical Sunday in Sevilla - folks out and about enjoying the warm sunshine, tables and chairs spilling out of all the bars and cafes full of folks enjoying the social scene, musicians lost in the reverie of their own playing - guitars, accordians ........ It's certainly good to be back.

More excited than apprehensive, I await the delights and challenges and new friendships I hope the language course, which begins on Tuesday morning, will bring.