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We now know why this area of Andalucia is so aptly named 'the frying pan of the south'. Temperatures have soared to 44 degrees in the shade, 52 out in the sun. We were told this area experienced extremes of weather - now we know! Very cold and wet winters and meltingly hot summers. Too hot to be up on the terrace other than for early breakfasts (what are they?!) and sun downers before supper. When at home, we take refuge of sorts indoors. We are still going out and about but oh for an air con car!! Sleep during the night is frequently interrupted by fan on.... fan off..... fan on...... During some unearthly hour last night, desperate to cool myself down, I was to be found in the bathroom soaking hands and wrists in cold water followed by feet and ankles! We have no aircon indoors but could do with it - we might yet invest in a mobile unit!! Sam and Sarah are due out this Thursday eve for a long weekend so I guess it will be down to the lakeside beach at Iznajar with picnic and sun brollies during the day hours though we'd love to take them to Zuheros - perhaps a very early start might make it possible!
We've had some fun these last couple of weeks:
A couple of neighbours hosted a small outdoor supper party (rather reminded me of the Bertolli ad where a large number of folks sit around a huge table under the shade of the trees enjoying each others company and wonderful array of food - always set me longing). This was during the evening when it's a tad cooler - a friendly, convivial evening. to which we were delighted to be included, sharing delicious food and much vino and fino (the local 'hill wine').
A couple of evenings later we were 'walking' the newly laid pavement along the lower road of the village, led by the mayoress - apparently a custom to 'christen' such a smart new pavement. A reasonably small group began the walk but a much greater number were there at the end having joined in on the walk as it progressed - put me in mind of the Pied Piper! There was a presentation of a small gift for the oldest man and woman on the walk and youngest girl and boy then it was down to the bar - on the mayoress! What a charming custom and yet another way to bring everyone together.
We had an unexpected trip back to England for the funeral last Monday of an uncle of Michael's - such a great chap - full of mischief and fun. We were glad to be able to make it though and spend some time with the family afterwards. We were only back for a few days so apologies to those folks we/I usually catch up with. We did, however, spend some time with our boys before heading back, which is always special.
Last Friday night was the Santiago Fiesta in El Higueral.
After Mass the figure of the saint was brought out and carried around the streets, every once in a while the procession would stop whilst the village choir accompanied by 2 guitarists would sing the wonderful way they do here - full of passion and life. The procession eventually came back to the church and everyone made for the village hall where tables and chairs had been set up outside in front of the staging for the live music and the biggest BBQ I've ever seen and the food kept coming............ Lots of fun and dancing which went on until gone 4 in the morning. We've the September fiesta to look forward to now which is supposedly by far the biggest, grandest and best of them all - a 3 day affair!!
We had a super week with my cousin Julian and his wife Frances who flew back with us on the Wednesday. We introduced them, among other places, to Cordoba and the wonderful Mezquita which Michael and I will never tire of visiting no matter how many times we go there; The Alhambra where there are always more treasures to discover no matter how many times one visits; one of our favourite local spots: St Ermita Virgen de la Sierra, a hermitage, perched 2,000 metres at the top of a steep hill from where you can see for miles and if you're very lucky, buzzards flying overhead.
We went to a 60th birthday party on the Saturday for a new-found acquaintance who coincidentally shares the same birth date as myself and the party was the night before Michael's 65th! When it came to the birthday cake 'ceremony' they also sang Happy Birthday (Feliz Cumpleanos) to Michael and me and we presented with a birthday cake too! Trying to find the location of the house set us a challenge - we just couldn't find it! At one point we seemed to be following another car being driven in such a way we decided they were lost too and also decided they looked English. When we ended up parked behind them in a dead-end street I got out to ask if they were going to the same place as us - they were Spanish and weren't going our way at all!! But we all laughed at the mistake - we couldn't help them.... they couldn't help us...... Good thing we hadn't followed them so very far! We decided to try once more and found the little turning we'd missed on 2 previous occasions - though it meandered down, up, around and around for so long we did begin to wonder if we were right then we stumbled across it - a house in the middle of no-where and cars strewn everywhere along the track, parked every and anywhere and much 'party' noise. You know that sensation of feeling very, very silly - how did they all manage to find it??? We didn't own up to our mystery trip! But it was a great party with many Spanish guests so another 'try our Spanish' opportunity - pity the folks! We even had Happy Birthday (Feliz Cumpleanos) sung to us both and were presented with a birthday cake! The views across the distant mountains from their living room were breathtaking and even more so as the sun set and cast a pink glow right across the mountain range - stunning. Though I don't think I'd care to navigate that track every time I needed to fetch a loaf of bread.
On the Sunday, we had a village coach outing - a community event arranged on a fairly frequent basis during the summer months and funded by the local municipality. Amazing value at 7 euros per head which just about covered the cost of the coach!! First call was to the nearby picturesque white washed hilltop town of Iznajar, perched on the top of a rocky outcrop some 540 metres above sea level
and almost entirely surrounded by a reservoir some 30 Kms long and the views from the mirador at the top are simply wonderful (see pics on posting ' Good Friends Visit for the Weekend' - April). I was staggered to see most of the elderly folk, without a second thought, tackle the long steep climb up many steps to the top - guess they get lots of practise living in this village!
It's a small but fascinating town which includes the ruins of a 1200 year old castle (currently under refurbishment) and a 15th century church with a beautiful baroque altar. However, this visit, with our guide, we were able to gain access to places we've previously found closed: The church bell tower which involved climbing up too many little tight stairs to count them but well worth it for the view to be enjoyed from the top! Then the library where I found amongst the more modern books a section on very aged, well worn and yellowed books including an early edition of Lassie with the black and white drawn illustrations I remember so will - really took me back a few years!! We visited the museum which is housed in what was the original Council Chambers - the Mayor's seat still in situ but the remainder of the room now displaying everyday artefacts used in day-to-day living and working through the years. One of our Spanish neighbours shared a saucy story with us: he was showing us the simple 'bed' (just lengths of rope tied across a wooden frame, no mattress) used by the shepherds in their little huts. Apparently the story goes that a young shepherd, newly married and with no way of providing a bed for them, brought such a 'bed' inside their cottage. She would sleep on the top and he underneath. If he wanted her he would reach through the rope slats and tickle her - if the response was negative his luck was out but if she said yes - his luck was in!
The best chuckle of the morning was the visit to the newly opened sports and leisure centre which included a visit to the gymnasium - it reminded me of opening the best sweetie shop in the world and letting children loose inside - the elderly folk (of which there were lots on this trip) were all over the equipment - lifting weights - then finding them too heavy so just literally letting them drop to the ground with a thunderous crash; the rowing machine; cycling machine; treadmill. The funniest was a little guy who reached up to pull down a weighted pulley and before he knew it he was whipped up off his feet!! Then dear Marie from next-door-but-one was persuaded to give the swizzle board a go ...
Powers of persuasion in action
Michael showing Julio (one of our neighbours) how it's done!
I don't know who enjoyed that experience the most - those having the absolute time of their lives or us watching them! Can you imagine anything like it ever being allowed back home??! On a more serious note the intention was a PR exercise to show the local folks the amenities they can use but I have a little doubt in my mind as to whether most of these would actually seriously consider using a gym! From there we were taken to the newly refurbished hotel by the lake for a swim and 4 course lunch with as much sangria as we could drink - the jugs were never empty! Then late afternoon we were off to a little place called Rio Frio where there are fish farms, a little market and the opportunity of a leisurely walk along the stream under the shade of the trees. It was a full day out, great fun, a fantastic opportunity to get to know some of the local village folk even better and the cheapest day out I've ever had! Roll on the next day trip.............
On their last evening with us we sat on the lakeside restaurant terrace enjoying a few drinks over supper in the warm night air until gone midnight. It was a special week of re-visiting and sharing some of our favourite places and of rekindling our cousin-to-cousin relationship which has been pretty non-existent since we were teenagers. It was also a wonderful opportunity to have fun reminiscing over family times/antics when we were young!
Memories of that wonderfully fantastical brilliant day will remain with us forever! A very, very special day for us both surrounded by so many dear, dear friends and family and what a gift from Gill and Mike - lending their home and garden for the celebration, not to mention all the time and effort that went into the planning and preparations - every detail considered and simply nothing overlooked. Then Carol's ribbon and balloon decorations making it all complete.
We landed up at Gill and Mike's the previous Tuesday to find their garden looking absolutely beautiful and everything in hand - all we had to do was enjoy the anticipation of the day to come and then of course the day itself! What a wonderfully relaxed way in which to enjoy one's own party which is usually fraught with anxious planning details, timetables, shopping etc. etc. !! All we had to do was relax and enjoy. All my attempts to express how much we appreciated all that was done for us seemed feebly inadequate - to convey how deeply touched we were by this amazing gift given to us by these dear friends of ours
We did manage to lend a hand erecting the marquee on the Thursday evening - with dozens of metal poles, yard upon yard of covering and no instructions we certainly met our challenge! We thought we were doing quite well until we noticed that one side of the framework was longer than the opposite side - perhaps we had gone wrong somewhere? Especially when we tried to connect the roof pieces, poles were popping back out all over the place - it's nothing short of a miracle that none of us were walking around on the Saturday with black eyes - though I believe Gill had a pretty hefty blow to her foot when one of the poles decided to drop out completely! The thought of eyes peering out from behind net curtains in the neighbouring house put me in mind of Candid Camera (for those of my generation old enough to remember that programme!) as we began to wonder if this was ever meant to pull together to make a marquee!! We did finally manage to get hold of a copy of the instructions and to our satisfied amazement discovered we hadn't really done so badly after all - just a few changes and suddenly we had a solid framework over which to put the covering - and in no time were admiring our efforts of the last 3 hours as we stood looking at a very smart marquee!
We all seem to have very different ideas as to which one goes where............. meanwhile nothing's going anywhere!!
"Shouldn't it be a little taller than this??"
After all the laughter and effort, it looked lovely for the party and served us well for our 3 families' Father's Day celebration on Sunday!
Folks drifted in from around 2 o'c onward and, as far as British summers go, we were lucky to have a warm day with the sun popping in and out which meant we could all be outside which always creates that lovely sense of freedom and much enhances the party atmosphere! Folks mingled and chatted, sipped vino and Pimms and enjoyed Grace's wonderful buffet while the music played gently in the background.
Lovely to see the young folks still around and enjoying themselves late into the evening - reluctant to leave before 'the party's over'! It was a wonderful opportunity to catch up with friends we've not had the chance to see in a while.
During the afternoon, we were taken by surprise whilst sitting at the top end of the garden to hear the distant singing of "Happy Birthday........." we turned to see Jess and Katie holding a cake for each of us, walking towards us and a sea of faces - all our dear friends and family singing "Happy Birthday". I was quite overwhelmed (though those of you who know me well will not be the least surprised to know that!) Another thoughtful touch on Gill's part I believe! I made a very lame attempt at a speech too overcome with emotion - thankfully Michael was there with his strength and sense of humour to fill the gap!! I just wanted to say how fantastic it was to have everyone there to share our special day and to give Gill and Mike, and Carol, a very special thank you - best laid plans eh?!
Later in the evening the tempo and volume were pushed up a few notches and the dancing got underway!
It's always sad when such occasions come to an end, but end they must. But we made the most of every moment of that day and will long cherish the memories - thank you to everyone who helped make that such a memorable day.
P.S. We flew back to Spain on the Wednesday with my cousin Julian and his wife, Frances, who were going to spend a week with us. That at least made leaving a little easier! Though we always look forward to coming back, it never gets easier saying goodbye to the boys!!
Yesterday, Sunday, I had the privilege of witnessing the confirmation of 5 children. This was also the first time I have had the chance to see inside our village church - a very simple recently rebuilt church but with a lovely sense of peace and calm within.
It was standing room only but I was fortunate enough to be grabbed by the arm by our friendly neighbour (the oranges and eggs lady!) as she squeezed through to make her way up a narrow little staircase to the balcony where we found the choir - and from where I had a wonderful view of everything!
All in Spanish of course but a beautiful ceremony to witness all the same and the singing was absolutely beautiful - a large group of both men and women accompanied by a single guitar. Fortunately it was so hot I was dabbing at my moist face with a tissue so I'm sure no-one noticed the odd tear being mopped up too! They sang with such passion - what is it about the Spanish when they sing? I just can't put my finger on it nor find the words to describe but it seems to come from deep within - somewhere from their roots from way, way back.
As the ceremony was drawing to its conclusion, each child was handed something by the priest - a large red love heart, another a cross made quite simply from 2 little branches, some wheat - I shall find out the meaning of these next time I pay one of our Spanish neighbours a visit.
I had just got back indoors to relate all this to Michael, when we heard singing outside the house - there was a procession making it's way up the street past the house - the 5 confirmed children, the priest, 'something' they were carrying aloft (I shall have to find out what all this is really about!) and so many villagers - so we joined them as it made its way slowly up and around the steep little lanes of this village finally coming back to the church. During the procession everything came to a standstill for a few moments where neighbours and placed little 'altars' and hung pretty shawls over their balconies - all very basic and simple yet so meaningful and a very happy experience.
I also realised how many faces amongst all those people, are now so familiar in this village of 400 or so. This is no longer (neither has it been for some while now) the unfamiliar place full of strangers, but somewhere we feel most comfortable, very welcome and happy.
And I shall find out more about the significance of some of the more unusual elements of their confirmation ceremonies.
It was the wettest, coldest most miserable winter in 50 years in this a
rea so not the warm, sunny winter we expected in the south of Spain! When we did have the odd day of sunshine during Jan and Feb (the worst 2 months) it was like a summer's day - but they were rare. As we moved through March to April there was a gradually transition as the days grew longer and warmer and the cold weather became just a memory. Now into May the weather is settled and beautiful - clear, hot sunny days just like the hot mid-summer days back home (when we get them!).
We have now decamped to the roof terrace which has it's own outside kitchen with all amenities minus a cooker - the only reason now to use the downstairs kitchen! We have our early morning (well, not that early!) cuppa on the terrace, breakfast, lunch, dinner and when the fancy takes us an evening drink as the sun goes down and then we light the candles. This of course assuming we're at home - much of our week is taken up elsewhere - Spanish lessons, shopping, housework (minimal!), socialising, my once a week flamenco lessons, walking, exploring........ But when at home, we're on the terrace - it's our kitchen, lounge, dining room and study all rolled into one and we love it!
The beginning of May sa
w the finish of the olive harvest and each morning dotted around the olive groves there were spirals of smoke curling up into the air as the prunings were burnt - removal of olive wood from the groves is prohibited because of the possible spread of disease. The trees are now heavy with their blossom - a rather dull uninteresting colour but with the promise of those large, black juicy olives which will be ripe for harvesting in November.
Through April and into well into May we enjoyed an abundance of strikingly beautiful wild flowers - apparently due to the unusually wet winter, better than ever before. I had no idea this area could be made even so much more beautiful with all those flowers - springtime was an absolute delight. However, as each day has dawned the temperature has crept up a degree or two and after a few days under the intense heat of the sun saw the flowers very quickly wither and disappear. The landscape, where colourful with wild flowers and green grass, is now brown and parched. With one main exception - the good old poppies! They still flower on, those deep red heads showing up against the parched scrub and we came across a field full of them:
However, we're not completely without colour - to replace the wild flowers the many pomegranate trees are profuse in their brilliant orange blossom and the prickly pear cacti showing off their bright yellow and orange paper-like flowers.
If I thought I would miss the birdsong back home I was much mistaken! Sitting on the terrace we are surrounded by the busy house martins and swallows, having made their nests, had their young, now feeding the little fledglings. 
And the single palm tree beside the church not far from us is home to what seems to be hundreds of sparrows. We also have a couple of black birds - slightly smaller than the British blackbird, with ruffled feathers atop their heads and round their necks and stumpy tails but the most delightful birdsong I have ever heard! They have nested under a roof tile in a near neighbour's roof so we have a birds' eye (forgive the pun!) view of all their activities and are quite entertained as we watch delightedly when they sit on the chimney singing their hearts out.
Some very smart black wrought-iron benches have been placed along the pavement on the road leading out of the village towards Priego where the fellas like to sit awhile - when they get pushed out of the houses from under the feet of the wives determined on their daily housework routine. However, they still prefer to use the old bits of ply spanning a couple of tree trunk stumps - the new benches they say are uncomfortable, cold in the winter and too hot in the summer! No pleasing some!
So, now early June, we are well into settled (so far!) hot summer days. The village is a very quiet place now in the heat of the mid day - not a soul about and even the little dogs who usually seek the shade against the walls of the houses, now retreat inside to the cool.
I obviously wasn't the only one drawn to this rather lovely little blue wildflower I spotted whilst out walking this morning (there is still the odd one or two battling it out with the hot sun!) ~
......... and our flowering Aloe Vera plant with El Higueral in the background:
Realising the diary for March, April and May was filling up fast with visits of friends and family, Michael and I decided to get our visits to to Granada, Sevilla and Cordoba booked and din the diary! By the time we arrived for our 3 night stay in Cordoba at the beginning of May, we had already paid 3 visits - one with Jon and Jen, Dad and Les then Sam and Sarah so we were beginning to feel we were getting to know the place pretty well but such a city is deserving of many visits. We had also timed our visit to coincide with the Patios Festival so there was a lot more to explore. (See separate posting for the patios.)
We were under the misguided illusion that locating our hotel would be straightforward - a little gem with its Mudejar architecture with the typical Andalucian courtyard giving it a wonderful oriental atmosphere - 4 poster bed draped in vibrantly coloured silks, richly coloured walls and gentle lighting - the perfect place to relax after a long day sightseeing. However, the reality was like finding our way (or not!) into the centre of a maze! Memories of Seville flooding back when we were completely lost driving up yet another narrow street and coming out onto a wide open plaza criss-crossed with tramlines and not a car in sight - no, don't think this is a car zone!! A policeman spotted us and sympathetically wagged a finger at us and having told us "Tom Tom mal" (though we'd long given up on Sat Nav!) gave us directions which lead us to our hotel. Cordoba appears to be a city under 'work in progress' in many areas at present and we found ourselves hampered by major roadworks which restricted traffic on the main ring road to one-way as well as various areas within the labyrinthine streets of the old quarter being blocked due to minor roadworks! How Michael kept his cool navigating around those tight, narrow little streets full of pedestrians milling about and the wares of the little shops spilling out on the streets I will never know! It seemed there was a little saucy fella somewhere up ahead playing a game with us and placing these bright yellow barriers across the street we were heading for just ahead of us! At a point where we had just about given up in complete despair and wondered if anyone would notice an abandoned Brit reg BMW wedged up the little street, M spotted a taxi driver in his cab - in no time we were heading off behind this most helpful taxi driver out of the city - we followed anxiously as we appeared to be going a long way in completely the opposite direction of our hotel but as we wove behind him through those little streets he brought us to the door of our hotel - to the immense relief of bus both and our very very grateful thanks - even more so when we discovered secure parking directly opposite the hotel - I hadn't dared let myself dwell on the prospect of having unloaded the car, driving off to find a car park! And so it was, we started our stay in Cordoba.
Cordoba has a more intimate feel than Sevilla - rather like a small provincial town. It sits alongside the River Guadalquivir and is dominated by the Mezquita. We had visited the Mezquita on two previous visits and this deserves a slot all on its own (see separate posting).
Exploring the sprawling Jewish Quarter with its labyrinth of charming narrow streets with flower-filled balconies is relaxing and fun.
Then there's the Alcazar (fortress) with its lovely gardens (another separate posting!). This is a city to stroll around and soak up the atmosphere and we spent time relaxing over a coffee or a leisurely drink and obligatory tapas in one of the intimate little plazas or by contrast the much larger plazas with their markets and shops sheltering under the arcades. There was a lovely intimate little plaza just a few hundred yards from our hotel where we enjoyed breakfast in the sunshine each morning before heading off to explore or find some more patios.
They take their dominoes very seriously:
As it's only just over an hour's drive from here I feel sure we shall return many times - to do nothing than just relax, stroll through the streets and enjoy a walk along the river.
Mezquita by night:
