Back to school ......

.......and it's great! I didn't give much thought to how I would react to all this. Now I'm plunged in the midst of studying Spanish in a school in the heart of Sevilla I have to admit it feels completely surreal - and wonderful - what a privilege and amazing experience! School is 09.30 - 13.30 Monday to Friday with 2 breaks - the first taken up with a much needed boost of caffeine in the bar downstairs followed by a spot of sunshine on the school's roof terrace - from where we can see across to the cathedral and down to the hustle and bustle of the streets below. A small friendly school, excellent tutors and some interesting classmates - American, Italian, German, Danish, Portuguese ....... I seem to be the sole English student but a max of 10 students at any one time. This is surely going to be real challenge - the entire lesson is delivered in Spanish and I'm not that conversant with the language yet - that's why I'm here!!! Should be very interesting .......................


As I walk to school each morning Sevilla is only just waking up and by the time I return, most of the shops have closed again and workshops hidden behind closed doors for siesta time (makes light on the purse!). Everything comes to life again in the evening and tonight we stumbled across a couple of workshops with the most exquisite pieces of work in the making - and some completed pieces of stunningly beautiful stained glass. Optimistically, I enquired if any of the pieces were 'se vende' (for sale) sadly to be told they were not - though I guess such items in hand baggage might create a challenge at check-in at the airport! Then there were the silversmiths busy restoring and creating some amazing pieces of work - commissions from the local churches. There's such buzz in this area with its old town character and sizzling nightlife.

Sevilla for 6 weeks - hooray!!

Having spent 3 very hectic but immensely enjoyable weeks back in the UK staying with and visiting friends and family we flew back to Spain for our 6 week stay in Sevilla on 31st October. We were booked on the 6 a.m. flight to Malaga in order to give us plenty of time to navigate our way to the main line station in the centre of Malaga to catch the train to Sevilla - a two and a half hour journey - then the final leg by taxi to our apartment in the Macarena quarter of Sevilla -the northern area of the old town. All went swimmingly smoothly except for the one and a half hour flight delay due to a computer malfunction prior to take off which meant losing the tug facility and our take-off slot. Fortunately we had a gem of a captain with a quirky sense of humour who eased the long wait with his quips, invites to the cock-pit, offers of drinks and cold snacks and use of mobile phones until we received clearance. Malaga train station was housed inside a huge bright and modern shopping mall with a very pleasant restaurant where we enjoyed some tapas and vino which, along with a little shopping, helped while away the 2 hours before our train was due. Super efficient rail service which somehow takes so much of the strain out of travelling which meant at the end of a total of 13 hours travelling we were still feeling pretty bright and breezy.

The taxi driver dropped us and our luggage off outside the address we had given him and drove off - a house sited in one of the typical back streets of the city with extremes of beautifully tiled/balconied houses to the more rundown neglected interspersed with those little essential grocery shops - including would you believe Lidl!! Everything looking so unfamiliar and anonymous at that moment and standing on the pavement outside No. 41, I took reassurance from the phone call I'd made from Sevilla train station to a number we'd been given and hoped we'd have a response to the intercom at the front door! The final bit of our journey and the door was opened. We were lead down a long corridor to our ground floor apartment at the back of the house - suitably described as 'student style' I believe!! Very small (compact I think is the word) and basic but clean. You know the score perhaps: a shower that manages to deposit more water on the bathroom floor than in the shower tray; 1 towel each; 3 plastic folding chairs and table in the lounge/diner and a small TV for Spanish channels only and another item of furniture that goes under the description of 'sofa'; a small 'fully equipped' kitchen which means it comes with washing machine (as yet to be tried and tested!), 2 small hob plates and a microwave (no grill or oven) so a quick review of our cooking habits required here, and sufficient crocks, pans etc. But, we have an enormous fridge/freezer - quite bizarre in the circumstances - but due to lack of cupboard space most useful for items one would not usually choose to refrigerate!! Then of course we have our little 'patio' - bedroom, lounge and kitchen are built around the tiny patio - from where we get our only daylight into the apartment and by peering up 3 storeys high and looking up at the little square patch of visible sky we find out what the weather is doing (though who'd be silly enough to think it's doing anything but sunshine and blue skies here!) After a swift and necessary readjustment of expectations and a few chuckles, we decided it would do us fine for our 6 weeks - I know we'll be very happy here - who wouldn't be in this amazing, wondeful, incredible city?

Yesterday (Sunday), map in hand, we checked out the route to the language school and found it tucked right inside the heart of cafes and bars just a stone's throw from the cathedral - what a location! The school is located in an old converted Spanish house around a 20 min walk from the apartment with so much to see and enjoy en route including, in contrast to these back streets and just around the corner from here, a modern, up-market tree-lined avenue with fountains, colourful children's play areas with a miriad of cafes and bars. As we made our way to the centre we could hear the faint strains of one of my favourite pieces of classical music and to my absolute delight we came upon 2 lads playing the violin and the cello accompanied by pre-recorded piano music - it was as if someone had given them my list of favourite pieces as we stood and listened - I couldn't tear myself away. It was the typical Sunday in Sevilla - folks out and about enjoying the warm sunshine, tables and chairs spilling out of all the bars and cafes full of folks enjoying the social scene, musicians lost in the reverie of their own playing - guitars, accordians ........ It's certainly good to be back.

More excited than apprehensive, I await the delights and challenges and new friendships I hope the language course, which begins on Tuesday morning, will bring.

Visits to Bodegas and the Fino Festival

Early yesterday morning found us setting out on another coach trip from the village - this time to visit the bodegas of Moriles where the local wine - fino - is made - 'hill wine' as some folks call it. It's the 'white wine' of this area.

The town of Moriles is set in the midst of acres of vines, though the area is still very much one of olive groves. These vines don't grow in the traditional way trained vertically along wires as I had expected but as bushes which are cut right down to the ground at the end of the season leaving fields of rather ugly black stumps until the new growth starts again at the first hint of warm weather after the winter weeks.

We were very grateful for a breakfast of fresh crusty white bread served with cheese and jamon before we hit our first of many tastings of various finos throughout the day at 3 different bodegas.















As fascinating and thoroughly enjoyable as it was, I felt the frustration of not being fluent in Spanish yet again. One has to bear in mind that these village trips aren't quite the 'holiday tours' one is used to with the benefit of the guide speaking in one's native tongue! But our friend and neighbour, Abbey, has an excellent command of Spanish so was able to share the gist of it with us - thank you Abbey!
Ruth sampling the fino and holding one for the photographer (honestly!)




As if we hadn't had sufficient fill of many very generous fino tastings, it was then on to the annual Fino Festival of Moriles where we spent 3 hours sharing bottles of various finos between us and sampling some delicious tapas. The first thing you have to do on arrival at such an event is buy your glass which you keep for the duration then take home as a souvenir! Then off you go buying bottles of finos of your choice from the casetas of the various bodegas represented.

The event took place in a huge marquee so full folks I had wondered as we first stepped inside if we would be able to move at all! There was no room for seating - only oak barrels if you could find a free one on which to stand bottle, glasses and plates of tapas! The noise of excited chatter and laughter was such that it reminded me of the last time we went to a night club in Birmingham when we emerged to find our hearing so affected everything we heard was muffled! It was enormous fun (once we adjusted to the noise level and learnt to shout just as loudly as everyone else!). The Spanish do seem to throw themselves into any sort of social event with such gusto and enthusiasm - they make everything such fun. Thankfully as we'd arrived quite late in the afternoon it did




seem to empty out to give us a little more breathing space! It was certainly a unique experience and the time simply flew - we were introduced to other folks through the people we had gone with and our glasses were generously re-filled from their bottles - we needed those tapas!!

On return to the village we decided to 'have one for the road' in the bar before turning in - I resorted to coffee at that point. When we left the bar I thought I was finally heading for my much desired bed - wrong!!

A few of the local guys were enjoying a few finos and tapas in the little plaza outside Abbey and Narindar's home - and absolutely insisted we joined them - I've no idea how long we stayed there but we had a hilarious time especially when one of the guys who'd been on the trip and in a very merry state by then, had waited for his wife to go to bed before creeping indoors to get the 5L flagon of fino dulce (more like a syrup than a sweet sherry!!) that his wife had guarded all the way home from the bodega trip - boy what trouble may lay in store for him now - there's rather a large air pocket now where fino dulce once had been!!

Back home enjoying the fino dulce!




It was a really fun day - we've discovered even more of the beautiful countryside around here, the trips to the bodegas and the fino festival were fascinating and tasty! The folks here have embraced us from the very start, we've felt so very welcome here and events like yesterday cement that friendship further - and this place really does feel more like home every day!

Village Feria

That was certainly one brilliant 3 day party!

We were warned we should pace ourselves and not try to see/participate in everything as there's so much going on during the day then dancing starting around midnight every night, going on through to somewhere near breakfast time - we did try but I have to confess to failing rather dismally, too concerned we were not to miss out on anything with the result that Monday was pretty much a write off - it was worth it!

There was a lively festive atmosphere over the entire village with the main street taken up with various stalls, inflatable slide, ball pool etc for the kiddies. It was all very colourful with lots of illuminations hung across the street and bunting in abundance. The 2 bars had set up awnings to the opposite side of the street providing full cover against rain/sun (and sadly we did have a little rain after all the many weeks of unbroken sunshine) with plenty of chairs and tables set up. Only during these 3 days do the bars both offer hot food - day and night (well almost all night!). A local company took over an empty garage where we could order spit roasted chickens - no time for cooking meals for anyone during those 3 days!

The main events were held in the huge village hall at the far end of the street where there was more hot food available and a bar running from lunch time to whenever the last partying stragglers decided to leave in the morning - didn't like to ask what the folks managing this were 'on' in order to keep going for 3 days and nights with virtually no break!

There was always something going on with domino and football tournaments going on in the background; bicycle and motorbike tape races - right under our balconies which was one reason for a missed siesta!












The 'Poets' evening when various individuals and groups staged readings, sketches and singing. Then there was the 'platos tipicos' on the Sunday lunchtime when folks brought along typical local dishes which were laid out along trestle tables set full length down the centre of the hall - I assumed, rather like at summer fetes back home, these were to be judged. I was rather puzzled as little plastic forks were given out to everyone in the hall - I should have guessed by the huge number of people sitting expectantly around all the tables and chairs - when the word was given, one huge sea of bodies descended on the table dipping in to all those dishes - I've never seen the like!

Now this is VERY serious business ........../


It didn't take me long to join in the friendly melee and indulge in some wonderfully delicious food! An amazing assortment of savoury and sweet, hot and cold dishes. All accompanied by the wonderful singing of the El Higueralian choir. In no time the food was completely demolished leaving behind only a few crumbs and many empty plates.

The highlight of the entire 3 days of course was the Friday evening procession which really signalled the start of and was the reason for the feria. Like all other Spanish villages and towns, El Higueral has its own patron saint:
La Virgen del Carmen


The proceedings were very typical of those we've already enjoyed in other towns - the misa (Mass) is held first before the statue of the Virgen del Carmen on the large float is brought out of the church and then carried aloft on a few strong shoulders through and around the village accompanied by the solemn music of the band, single fireworks exploding every now and then to mark the progression of the procession, followed by a many of the villagers carrying the 3' long candles - a humbling experience sharing in the candlelit procession with these devout folks. It was a long walk down and up steeps streets on a rather chilly evening taking a good hour and a half before we were back at the church whereupon the dozen or so men who had carried this weighty float without a break upped their speed and literally ran around in circles on the spot, turning the float 28 times to the huge cheers and applause of us all. Then it was off to start the partying ................

The Performance!

Never in my wildest dreams did I imagine I would be dancing the sevillana (a flamenco style dance) in an outdoor theatre set against the magical backdrop of the floodlit castle of the hilltop town of Iznajar! What a simply amazing opportunity, experience and privilege. All the hard work, frustration and despondent moments (and nerves!) completely forgotten in the sheer pleasure, enjoyment and adrenalin rush of the performance in front of a huge crowd of spectators!

When we first arrived at the venue there were only a few rows of chairs set out and a handful of folks milling around so we drew the conclusion that this was a very low key affair - how wrong we were! Long before our performance slot the place was absolutely heaving with people - it was standing room only with further huge crowds gathered along the railings above the stage. It was a full evening programme of dance and song which heralded the start of the largest annual fiesta of Iznajar - in honour of the village patron saint 'Virgen de la Piedad' - a week long fiesta!

I'm so glad I didn't give up!
I signed up for lessons back in June under the illusion I was in for fun dance classes - only to learn a few weeks later that these classes were leading towards a performance! It seemed highly unlikely considering, particularly for us 3 Brits, the difficulties we were having not just learning the steps but co-ordinating the arms and learning the turns without tumbling over ourselves and each other. The Spanish lasses from the village appeared to have such a natural aptitude - reference footnotes below! As the performance date loomed the fun turned to despondency and frustration for me as I battled not only with this foreign dance but having little understanding of all the instructions delivered in Spanish!! I was so close to giving up a couple of weeks prior to the performance when one of the Spanish lasses in the class and from this village, seeing me struggle, offered to give me some extra coaching in her house any time I'd like to go round. I grabbed the chance and miracle of miracles, with Maria's patient coaching plus my determination and lots of extra practise, I was just about ready in time for the performance!

I will never, ever forget that memorable night - Val, Julia and I sat downing our glasses of 'dutch courage' with our respective other halves, nerves mounting by the minute (nope - the G&Ts didn't help one bit!!) -

- the sun going down and the moon, a huge orange ball that evening, rising into the darkening sky beside the floodlit castle. What a totally magical and enchanting setting.



Various dancing groups from little tiny tots learning their first sevillana steps through to older children up to the 2 adult classes performed throughout the evening - our group being the very last performance of the evening. Finally it was time - we took our places on stage, the music started. As we moved into the first few steps of the sevillana my spirits soared - the fun and excitement of the dance plus relief at the realisation that I seemed to be remembering all the steps and turns and without falling over myself! It was all over so very very quickly - all the worry, anxiety and frustrations, all those butterflies - all dissolved and in their place an overwhelming sense of achievement. I enjoyed every moment and left the stage with a pang of sadness that it was all over in the blink of an eye.

Quite unexpectedly, all dancers were summoned to gather around the stage where each of us was called up individually by name and presented with a red carnation and a certificate for a diploma in the sevillana!! Yay!!!!

Ruth with dance tutor, Paqui, Julia and Val















A little background information on the the sevillana dance courtesy of Wikipedia and andalucia.org :
This dance is characterised by its gracefulness, liveliness, nimble dynamism and flexibility. It is danced in pairs (either 2 women or a man and a woman). The dance is executed in a series of 4 coplas (poetic compositions, in verse, used as lyrics) each of which has a different choreography.
We only danced the first 2 parts - maybe 3 and 4 at a later date ...... ?
The sevillana is danced at fiestas, weddings, family parties where everyone joins in. It's something they have grown up with and learnt simply because they're surrounded by it. It seems everybody knows how to dance the sevillana and children are encouraged from a very young age - they are passionate about the Sevillana - a clue perhaps as to why us Brits found it the challenge we did ??

Little Gems of August

We were moving into August with a pretty clear diary - yet it's proved to be a month of yet further fun experiences and surprises.

Sam and Sarah spent the first weekend with us and with meltingly hot temperatures we all decided a couple of pool days were our best option. It's quite the custom here for hotels to open their pool to the public providing you take lunch there so there's quite a choice. On the second of the two days we ventured to Cerillo, a tiny little hamlet a good 7 kms off the main road down a winding track through the olive groves to La Prensa - an old refurbished country mansion and converted olive mill set amongst beautiful rose and lavender filled gardens with a backdrop of surrounding mountain ranges.


The large Romanesque pool within a walled garden had the most sumptuous sunbeds with brollies - even a jacuzzi set separately within another pretty walled area - and the day was topped off when Sam and Sarah treated us to a bottle of bubbly by the pool before lunch! Oooh, what total luxury and indulgence we all enjoyed that day - and have done since!!

Shortly after Sam and Sarah's departure, we were back at the airport collecting my niece and her partner and we had a very special week with them both including another visit to our favourite city of Cordoba where, yet again, our visitors were quite blown away by the uniqueness of the incredible and amazing Mesquita and fun when Rosanna bought herself a flamenco pinny!!


The day before their departure, our good friends from England, who have a house in this village, arrived for their 2 weeks. Needless to say we introduced them to La Prensa, we've enjoyed their company during the weekend Fiesta in Rute - Friday night was the crowning of the Queen and her three 'damas' - an extraordinarily grand affair with much pomp and circumstance all accompanied by various bands, then a wonderful firework display followed by a generous hour of enjoying listening to a male quartet singing typically Spanish songs and backed by a very lively group which all took place outside in a purpose made concert area under the night sky full of stars and a canopy of lime trees. The town of Rute was thronging with the buzz of happy people out enjoying the festivities - babes in arms to grannies - all generations throwing themselves into the spirit of the fiesta - a wonderful heartwarming sight and example of the close family units and simple entertaining fun that is so enjoyed by everyone. It was 3 a.m. before we arrived home having thoroughly enjoyed the night - we were back for more the next night for the Virgen del Carmen procession - we managed to find just one table free around the plaza so we could sit and enjoy the atmosphere over a few drinks in the warmest of night air. (How we enjoy these beautifully warm nights when you can go out in a summer dress until the early hours and not worry about feeling chilled - in fact the evenings are a very pleasant relief from the heat of the daylight hours!) Every now and then fireworks would be sent up from the position of the procession at given points as it wound its way through the streets of Rute.
Then we heard the band proclaiming the imminent arrival of the statue of Carmen being carried on a very elaborate float, as were the images of Christ and the Virgin Mary during the Santa Semana processions. There was much excitement as it reached the plaza and we were entertained yet again by an even more amazing firework display - the best I have ever seen.




A few days later we took the opportunity of a coach trip from the village to the biggest annual feria in Malaga - this fair is held to commemorate the re-conquest of the city by Isabella and Ferdinand in 1487. It's basically a week of partying - drinking and dancing the traditional dance of Andalusia - Sevillanas. The pedestrianised area where the feria takes place during daylight hours in decorated with paper lanterns and flags and colourful stalls and filled with bars and restaurants. By night everyone moves across to the fairground - to the casetas for entertainment and refreshment, lots of dancing, everyone dressed flamenco style and where the partying goes on until dawn. In between visiting the town and evening feria ground, we were treated to a picnic in the pinewoods just outside Torremolinos - where to my surprise 2 huge ice filled dustbins were brought from the luggage store in the coach for chilled beer and soft drinks; 3 large hocks of ham; cheese, bags of rolls to feed the 70+ of us! 3 guys set to expertly slicing the ham, the ladies sliced the cheese and in no time we'd all spread around the various stone tables/seats and were tucking into a simple yet delicious picnic.
We were just in time to see the illuminations at the feria ground before we were due to get the coach back. It was another glimpse into a very Spanish day out - we had no expectations of the day when we set out and returned contented and happy with a wonderful day out which was very obviously enjoyed by one and all - no sleeping on the coach on the return journey - everyone on such a high the volume level was quite unbelievable!!


The challenge of learning the Sevillana dance for the performance in the Iznajar fiesta on 6 September almost proved too much! However, one of the village lasses has offered to give me (and the 2 other English students) some extra coaching which is already paying off and with the added pleasure of another opportunity of getting to know one of our neighbours, most worthwhile! We at least will look the part in our black flamenco skirts, shoes, hair adorned with a white flower all made complete with big white dangly earrings - even if we don't quite match the expertise of the Spanish lasses who appear to be born to this dance! In hindsight I should perhaps have had a keener eye at the Malaga feria - even joined in - might have learnt something from such an experience!

We enjoyed Jane and Paul's celebration to mark the completion of the refurbishment of their house in the village - a mix of English and Spanish where we tucked into supper on their candlelit terrace each trying in their own way to make conversation in the other's language - lots of laughs and giggles and a great night - needless to say, another VERY late one!

Yesterday we set off to Carcabuey (not so very far from here) for the Bull Run - NOT I hasten to add the same style as the Pamplona Bull Run where a full size bull runs free - these are the younger bulls and held by a rope - though a very long one - one sees the bull, the rope - but asks where's the guy at the end of the rope??! There were 4 bulls in all, each on a separate run and fun as no harm is done to the bulls - the young lads (and a few young lasses) hover in the street and as soon as they hear the bull approaching they start running - often to come to an abrupt halt when they realise the bull has changed direction - yet again - and sent another crowd of youngsters into flight!! Just some dare devil fun really but good training for the bigger bulls if they aspire to such a thing!! My reflexes were surely tested too at one point - I was balancing on the safety barrier taking some pics when I suddenly realised the bull was heading straight in my direction - I've never moved so fast which caused lots of laughter from those around me! Even more so when it happened a second time - again balancing on the barrier, camera in hand, leaning over to watch as the youngsters run up the road, I was searching for the bull and completely missed the fact he was coming full pelt up against the barrier, totally unseen by me, and I only just spotted him in time to jump off! It was a very entertaining evening and much enjoyed by the huge crowds of people this event attracts.












We met up with friends there and all ended up in the bar afterwards before heading for home around 10 pm and very much in need of food - so we stopped at the lake restaurant where there was a huge leg of pork on the spit over the BBQ - too good to resist and it was the sweetest, most tender pork I have ever had, or probably will ever have. Back next week perhaps!

Jon and Jen are flying out next Saturday for a week so we'll all have a fantastic time and we're going to - yep, you've guessed it - Cordoba! We're going to stay overnight so Michael and I can enjoy the equestrian show one evening in the gardens of the Alcazar - these are the famous Andalusian horses - the breedstock for the Vienna Lipizaner Stallions - we can't resist going to such a performance as this!

So, as we near the end of August our thoughts are beginning to turn to our return to the UK looming up for early October. We feel the mounting pressure to pack more and more in before we leave this little corner of Spain we knew so little about just 8 months ago but have come to love so much and a place where we have been made more welcome than one could ever be worthy of. It's not helped either by the number of neighbours who have suggested various houses in and around the village we may like to consider buying and expressed their sadness that we will be leaving! Perhaps to return next year? Time will tell . . . . . . .

Frying Pan of the South

We now know why this area of Andalucia is so aptly named 'the frying pan of the south'. Temperatures have soared to 44 degrees in the shade, 52 out in the sun. We were told this area experienced extremes of weather - now we know! Very cold and wet winters and meltingly hot summers. Too hot to be up on the terrace other than for early breakfasts (what are they?!) and sun downers before supper. When at home, we take refuge of sorts indoors. We are still going out and about but oh for an air con car!! Sleep during the night is frequently interrupted by fan on.... fan off..... fan on...... During some unearthly hour last night, desperate to cool myself down, I was to be found in the bathroom soaking hands and wrists in cold water followed by feet and ankles! We have no aircon indoors but could do with it - we might yet invest in a mobile unit!! Sam and Sarah are due out this Thursday eve for a long weekend so I guess it will be down to the lakeside beach at Iznajar with picnic and sun brollies during the day hours though we'd love to take them to Zuheros - perhaps a very early start might make it possible!

We've had some fun these last couple of weeks:

A couple of neighbours hosted a small outdoor supper party (rather reminded me of the Bertolli ad where a large number of folks sit around a huge table under the shade of the trees enjoying each others company and wonderful array of food - always set me longing). This was during the evening when it's a tad cooler - a friendly, convivial evening. to which we were delighted to be included, sharing delicious food and much vino and fino (the local 'hill wine').















A couple of evenings later we were 'walking' the newly laid pavement along the lower road of the village, led by the mayoress - apparently a custom to 'christen' such a smart new pavement. A reasonably small group began the walk but a much greater number were there at the end having joined in on the walk as it progressed - put me in mind of the Pied Piper! There was a presentation of a small gift for the oldest man and woman on the walk and youngest girl and boy then it was down to the bar - on the mayoress! What a charming custom and yet another way to bring everyone together.

























We had an unexpected trip back to England for the funeral last Monday of an uncle of Michael's - such a great chap - full of mischief and fun. We were glad to be able to make it though and spend some time with the family afterwards. We were only back for a few days so apologies to those folks we/I usually catch up with. We did, however, spend some time with our boys before heading back, which is always special.

Last Friday night was the Santiago Fiesta in El Higueral.
After Mass the figure of the saint was brought out and carried around the streets, every once in a while the procession would stop whilst the village choir accompanied by 2 guitarists would sing the wonderful way they do here - full of passion and life. The procession eventually came back to the church and everyone made for the village hall where tables and chairs had been set up outside in front of the staging for the live music and the biggest BBQ I've ever seen and the food kept coming............ Lots of fun and dancing which went on until gone 4 in the morning. We've the September fiesta to look forward to now which is supposedly by far the biggest, grandest and best of them all - a 3 day affair!!

After the Party .............

We had a super week with my cousin Julian and his wife Frances who flew back with us on the Wednesday. We introduced them, among other places, to Cordoba and the wonderful Mezquita which Michael and I will never tire of visiting no matter how many times we go there; The Alhambra where there are always more treasures to discover no matter how many times one visits; one of our favourite local spots: St Ermita Virgen de la Sierra, a hermitage, perched 2,000 metres at the top of a steep hill from where you can see for miles and if you're very lucky, buzzards flying overhead.



We went to a 60th birthday party on the Saturday for a new-found acquaintance who coincidentally shares the same birth date as myself and the party was the night before Michael's 65th! When it came to the birthday cake 'ceremony' they also sang Happy Birthday (Feliz Cumpleanos) to Michael and me and we presented with a birthday cake too! Trying to find the location of the house set us a challenge - we just couldn't find it! At one point we seemed to be following another car being driven in such a way we decided they were lost too and also decided they looked English. When we ended up parked behind them in a dead-end street I got out to ask if they were going to the same place as us - they were Spanish and weren't going our way at all!! But we all laughed at the mistake - we couldn't help them.... they couldn't help us...... Good thing we hadn't followed them so very far! We decided to try once more and found the little turning we'd missed on 2 previous occasions - though it meandered down, up, around and around for so long we did begin to wonder if we were right then we stumbled across it - a house in the middle of no-where and cars strewn everywhere along the track, parked every and anywhere and much 'party' noise. You know that sensation of feeling very, very silly - how did they all manage to find it??? We didn't own up to our mystery trip! But it was a great party with many Spanish guests so another 'try our Spanish' opportunity - pity the folks! We even had Happy Birthday (Feliz Cumpleanos) sung to us both and were presented with a birthday cake! The views across the distant mountains from their living room were breathtaking and even more so as the sun set and cast a pink glow right across the mountain range - stunning. Though I don't think I'd care to navigate that track every time I needed to fetch a loaf of bread.

On the Sunday, we had a village coach outing - a community event arranged on a fairly frequent basis during the summer months and funded by the local municipality. Amazing value at 7 euros per head which just about covered the cost of the coach!! First call was to the nearby picturesque white washed hilltop town of Iznajar, perched on the top of a rocky outcrop some 540 metres above sea level



and almost entirely surrounded by a reservoir some 30 Kms long and the views from the mirador at the top are simply wonderful (see pics on posting ' Good Friends Visit for the Weekend' - April). I was staggered to see most of the elderly folk, without a second thought, tackle the long steep climb up many steps to the top - guess they get lots of practise living in this village!


It's a small but fascinating town which includes the ruins of a 1200 year old castle (currently under refurbishment) and a 15th century church with a beautiful baroque altar. However, this visit, with our guide, we were able to gain access to places we've previously found closed: The church bell tower which involved climbing up too many little tight stairs to count them but well worth it for the view to be enjoyed from the top! Then the library where I found amongst the more modern books a section on very aged, well worn and yellowed books including an early edition of Lassie with the black and white drawn illustrations I remember so will - really took me back a few years!! We visited the museum which is housed in what was the original Council Chambers - the Mayor's seat still in situ but the remainder of the room now displaying everyday artefacts used in day-to-day living and working through the years. One of our Spanish neighbours shared a saucy story with us: he was showing us the simple 'bed' (just lengths of rope tied across a wooden frame, no mattress) used by the shepherds in their little huts. Apparently the story goes that a young shepherd, newly married and with no way of providing a bed for them, brought such a 'bed' inside their cottage. She would sleep on the top and he underneath. If he wanted her he would reach through the rope slats and tickle her - if the response was negative his luck was out but if she said yes - his luck was in!


The best chuckle of the morning was the visit to the newly opened sports and leisure centre which included a visit to the gymnasium - it reminded me of opening the best sweetie shop in the world and letting children loose inside - the elderly folk (of which there were lots on this trip) were all over the equipment - lifting weights - then finding them too heavy so just literally letting them drop to the ground with a thunderous crash; the rowing machine; cycling machine; treadmill. The funniest was a little guy who reached up to pull down a weighted pulley and before he knew it he was whipped up off his feet!! Then dear Marie from next-door-but-one was persuaded to give the swizzle board a go ...

Powers of persuasion in action


Michael showing Julio (one of our neighbours) how it's done!


I don't know who enjoyed that experience the most - those having the absolute time of their lives or us watching them! Can you imagine anything like it ever being allowed back home??! On a more serious note the intention was a PR exercise to show the local folks the amenities they can use but I have a little doubt in my mind as to whether most of these would actually seriously consider using a gym! From there we were taken to the newly refurbished hotel by the lake for a swim and 4 course lunch with as much sangria as we could drink - the jugs were never empty! Then late afternoon we were off to a little place called Rio Frio where there are fish farms, a little market and the opportunity of a leisurely walk along the stream under the shade of the trees. It was a full day out, great fun, a fantastic opportunity to get to know some of the local village folk even better and the cheapest day out I've ever had! Roll on the next day trip.............

On their last evening with us we sat on the lakeside restaurant terrace enjoying a few drinks over supper in the warm night air until gone midnight. It was a special week of re-visiting and sharing some of our favourite places and of rekindling our cousin-to-cousin relationship which has been pretty non-existent since we were teenagers. It was also a wonderful opportunity to have fun reminiscing over family times/antics when we were young!

Birthday Party!

Memories of that wonderfully fantastical brilliant day will remain with us forever! A very, very special day for us both surrounded by so many dear, dear friends and family and what a gift from Gill and Mike - lending their home and garden for the celebration, not to mention all the time and effort that went into the planning and preparations - every detail considered and simply nothing overlooked. Then Carol's ribbon and balloon decorations making it all complete.

We landed up at Gill and Mike's the previous Tuesday to find their garden looking absolutely beautiful and everything in hand - all we had to do was enjoy the anticipation of the day to come and then of course the day itself! What a wonderfully relaxed way in which to enjoy one's own party which is usually fraught with anxious planning details, timetables, shopping etc. etc. !! All we had to do was relax and enjoy. All my attempts to express how much we appreciated all that was done for us seemed feebly inadequate - to convey how deeply touched we were by this amazing gift given to us by these dear friends of ours

We did manage to lend a hand erecting the marquee on the Thursday evening - with dozens of metal poles, yard upon yard of covering and no instructions we certainly met our challenge! We thought we were doing quite well until we noticed that one side of the framework was longer than the opposite side - perhaps we had gone wrong somewhere? Especially when we tried to connect the roof pieces, poles were popping back out all over the place - it's nothing short of a miracle that none of us were walking around on the Saturday with black eyes - though I believe Gill had a pretty hefty blow to her foot when one of the poles decided to drop out completely! The thought of eyes peering out from behind net curtains in the neighbouring house put me in mind of Candid Camera (for those of my generation old enough to remember that programme!) as we began to wonder if this was ever meant to pull together to make a marquee!! We did finally manage to get hold of a copy of the instructions and to our satisfied amazement discovered we hadn't really done so badly after all - just a few changes and suddenly we had a solid framework over which to put the covering - and in no time were admiring our efforts of the last 3 hours as we stood looking at a very smart marquee!

We all seem to have very different ideas as to which one goes where............. meanwhile nothing's going anywhere!!

















"Shouldn't it be a little taller than this??"
















After all the laughter and effort, it looked lovely for the party and served us well for our 3 families' Father's Day celebration on Sunday!
















Folks drifted in from around 2 o'c onward and, as far as British summers go, we were lucky to have a warm day with the sun popping in and out which meant we could all be outside which always creates that lovely sense of freedom and much enhances the party atmosphere! Folks mingled and chatted, sipped vino and Pimms and enjoyed Grace's wonderful buffet while the music played gently in the background.

Lovely to see the young folks still around and enjoying themselves late into the evening - reluctant to leave before 'the party's over'! It was a wonderful opportunity to catch up with friends we've not had the chance to see in a while.


During the afternoon, we were taken by surprise whilst sitting at the top end of the garden to hear the distant singing of "Happy Birthday........." we turned to see Jess and Katie holding a cake for each of us, walking towards us and a sea of faces - all our dear friends and family singing "Happy Birthday". I was quite overwhelmed (though those of you who know me well will not be the least surprised to know that!) Another thoughtful touch on Gill's part I believe! I made a very lame attempt at a speech too overcome with emotion - thankfully Michael was there with his strength and sense of humour to fill the gap!! I just wanted to say how fantastic it was to have everyone there to share our special day and to give Gill and Mike, and Carol, a very special thank you - best laid plans eh?!

Later in the evening the tempo and volume were pushed up a few notches and the dancing got underway!
















It's always sad when such occasions come to an end, but end they must. But we made the most of every moment of that day and will long cherish the memories - thank you to everyone who helped make that such a memorable day.

P.S. We flew back to Spain on the Wednesday with my cousin Julian and his wife, Frances, who were going to spend a week with us. That at least made leaving a little easier! Though we always look forward to coming back, it never gets easier saying goodbye to the boys!!

Confirmation in our local church

Yesterday, Sunday, I had the privilege of witnessing the confirmation of 5 children. This was also the first time I have had the chance to see inside our village church - a very simple recently rebuilt church but with a lovely sense of peace and calm within.

It was standing room only but I was fortunate enough to be grabbed by the arm by our friendly neighbour (the oranges and eggs lady!) as she squeezed through to make her way up a narrow little staircase to the balcony where we found the choir - and from where I had a wonderful view of everything!


All in Spanish of course but a beautiful ceremony to witness all the same and the singing was absolutely beautiful - a large group of both men and women accompanied by a single guitar. Fortunately it was so hot I was dabbing at my moist face with a tissue so I'm sure no-one noticed the odd tear being mopped up too! They sang with such passion - what is it about the Spanish when they sing? I just can't put my finger on it nor find the words to describe but it seems to come from deep within - somewhere from their roots from way, way back.

As the ceremony was drawing to its conclusion, each child was handed something by the priest - a large red love heart, another a cross made quite simply from 2 little branches, some wheat - I shall find out the meaning of these next time I pay one of our Spanish neighbours a visit.

I had just got back indoors to relate all this to Michael, when we heard singing outside the house - there was a procession making it's way up the street past the house - the 5 confirmed children, the priest, 'something' they were carrying aloft (I shall have to find out what all this is really about!) and so many villagers - so we joined them as it made its way slowly up and around the steep little lanes of this village finally coming back to the church. During the procession everything came to a standstill for a few moments where neighbours and placed little 'altars' and hung pretty shawls over their balconies - all very basic and simple yet so meaningful and a very happy experience.



I also realised how many faces amongst all those people, are now so familiar in this village of 400 or so. This is no longer (neither has it been for some while now) the unfamiliar place full of strangers, but somewhere we feel most comfortable, very welcome and happy.

And I shall find out more about the significance of some of the more unusual elements of their confirmation ceremonies.