Sevilla

We deliberately timed our visit to Sevilla to coincide with the Feria (the biggest annual festival in all Andalucia) and though this meant we missed the pleasure of the springtime scent of orange blossom and jasmine, which apparently permeates the entire city, it was a small price to pay for the incredible spectacle of the Feria and the extraordinarily lively atmosphere in the streets of this vibrant and joyous city with its striking Arab and Gothic architecture. (Separate posting on the Feria).



The most striking impact for me in Sevilla was the contrast of the intimacy of the narrow cramped streets with their dozens of little tapas bars and restaurants, flowered balconies and richly decorated facades sitting alongside, and totally dwarfed by, the vast and imposing buildings - the cathedral, the Giralda, the Alcazar (see separate postings) - the wide open plazas with their magnificent fountains, broad pedestrianised areas, the super modern tram system.




Exquisite tiles just about everywhere! I have read somewhere that perhaps wallpaper was banned some years ago in Sevilla! Quite believable since absolutely everywhere is covered with the most delightful intricately designed and colourful tiles from the most basic loo upwards! It is certainly a city of contrasts and one I would happily spend a few months exploring - four days allowed little more than a taste and glimpse of this exciting and wonderful city, much bigger than I had imagined and made all the better I guess by being blessed with blue skies and sunshine.

We were on our feet all day only returning, very foot-weary, to our little typically Andalucian courtyarded hotel in the evening to shower and change then go and seek out the perfect little place to wine and dine and take time to let all the day's experiences and sights sink in.

We managed to fit in a leisurely boat ride up the river Guadalquivir and a fun ride through the city on an open top bus - from where we had a wonderful view of all the carriages passing by with an occasional high-spirited greeting from the passengers on their way to the Feria!



I have never seen such a building as exists in the Plaza de Espana - a semi-circular building of 200 meters - an incredible sight. We stopped a while outside San Jorge Church when we noticed stylishly dressed guests (as is typical for Spanish weddings) gathering for a wedding and then watched as the bride arrived with her father in a horse drawn carriage - brought a tear to the eye - she looked so beautiful dressed in her delicately styled cream gown.

Plaza de Espana and San Jorge Church



We also visited the bullring - during Feria week the first rate matadors from all over Spain are drawn for the daily bullfights held during this week but we were very uncertain about spectating at such an event - another time perhaps!

Sevilla is certainly a wonderful city in so many ways with so much to see, do and explore and 4 days just didn't do it justice and photographs certainly don't though I can't resist popping in a few!

Cathedral of Sevilla and the Giralda

The size and grandeur of this cathedral are awesome! It is the largest gothic cathedral in the world, the largest cathedral and third largest Christian church in Spain with the longest nave in Spain and at a height of 42 metres one feels somewhat dwarfed standing in the centre of this magnificent building. We were so fortunate to see a double Christening taking place in one of the side chapels while we were there too.

Cathedral and Giralda



Cathedral facade:




The cathedral was built where a mosque once stood but the minaret (la Giralda) remains dominating the skyline. We climbed the 35 ramps (making a gentler ascent than stairs!) to the bell tower at the top of the 82 meter Giralda, catching glimpses of the spectacular views from windows as well as an interesting perspective of the gothic buttresses during the climb. Once at the top we had superb views across Sevilla and beyond, views of the Andalusian countryside and the river Gualdalquivir. We were well rewarded for our efforts in the climb.

Alcazar of Sevilla

Having planned on spending the morning in the Alcazar and the afternoon in the cathedral we weren't prepared for what lay in wait for us behind those high towering walls of the Alcazar and the hours we would spend enjoying wandering in there. So much so it was the following day before we got to the cathedral.

The Alcazar is a complex of buildings from the original Arab fortress of the 12th century to extensions and patios and palaces built by successive monarchs. It is today the official residence of the Spanish royal family when in Sevilla. The Alcazar resembles the Alhambra but on a much smaller scale. It is another incredible example of the amazing Mudejar style architecture with its exquisite decoration, extravagant stucco ornamentation and ceramic tiles - amazingly the richness of the original colour still very much in evidence.


Absolutely beautiful gardens of tall palm trees, fountains, a maze and rather beautiful underground rainwater tanks known as The Baths of Lady Maria de Padilla and a high decorative colonnaded walk running the full length of the extensive grounds allowing views out across the gardens.
A tranquil and simply lovely place to linger and enjoy.



As an aside, according to Wikipedia,: Maria de Padilla was the mistress of Pedro the Cruel. Supposedly, Pedro fell for Maria and had her husband killed. Maria resisted his advances and poured boiling oil over her face to disfigure herself to stop Pedro's pursuit. She became a nun and moved to a convent afterwards. she is regarded as a symbol of purity in the culture of Sevilla.

The Baths of Maria de Padilla:

Sevilla - The Feria

It would seem that after the solemnity of Holy Week (Easter), the week of the Feria is a chance to party and have fun! The Sevilla Feria is the largest in Andalucia and though originally started in the mid 1800's as a livestock fair, since the 1920's has become a week-long extravaganza of wining and dining! An explosion of colour, music and dancing which goes on all day and night in a temporary tent city - rows and rows of around a thousand brightly coloured canvas 'casetas', mostly privately owned, though there are some community casetas, erected specially for this one week and covering an area of approx 1 mile square - enough to swallow 54 football pitches! Rows of pretty paper lanterns hanging over the streets. The men dress in their traditional short jackets, tight trousers, boots and hats (cordobes) whilst the women look wonderful in their spectacularly colourful flamenco style dresses.

From around midday the 'Paseo de Caballos' takes place - around 3,000 horsemen and women and carriages make their way through the city to the Feria ground when they ride up and down the 'streets' between the rows of casetas - carriages full of friends and families;


men on their fine horses some fathers their little girls dressed so sweetly in their posh frocks; young boys sitting so
straight backed and proud on their horses;


men with their lasses somehow managing to sit behind them side saddle amongst the voluminous frilled dresses -


All quite an unbelievable spectacle and certainly not like anything I've ever seen before. In between the partying everyday life still goes on - it's a strange sight seeing women in their magnificent dresses hopping on and off buses, doing the shopping and going around their everyday business! We enjoyed the atmosphere of the Feria which we wandered around one afternoon but felt rather like gate-crashers and decided against any attempt to join in!! We should perhaps have got an inkling as we walked to the Feria ground in our casual walking clothes, sandals and rucsac feeling most out of place surrounded by these beautifully dressed women flooding down the street to the Feria (those that don't arrive in style by carriage!)

Maybe for another year we might get to know a Spanish family and receive an invitation - then I shall definitely have to go and seek out one of those spectacular dresses! One very good reason to consider over-wintering in Sevilla perhaps?

I have (today) made the first steps - literally! I attended my first flamenco dance class in the village hall which was great fun and if I can only get my legs and arms co-oordinated and stop looking like a windmill going at top speed I might just grasp the most basic of the dance steps!!