Confirmation in our local church

Yesterday, Sunday, I had the privilege of witnessing the confirmation of 5 children. This was also the first time I have had the chance to see inside our village church - a very simple recently rebuilt church but with a lovely sense of peace and calm within.

It was standing room only but I was fortunate enough to be grabbed by the arm by our friendly neighbour (the oranges and eggs lady!) as she squeezed through to make her way up a narrow little staircase to the balcony where we found the choir - and from where I had a wonderful view of everything!


All in Spanish of course but a beautiful ceremony to witness all the same and the singing was absolutely beautiful - a large group of both men and women accompanied by a single guitar. Fortunately it was so hot I was dabbing at my moist face with a tissue so I'm sure no-one noticed the odd tear being mopped up too! They sang with such passion - what is it about the Spanish when they sing? I just can't put my finger on it nor find the words to describe but it seems to come from deep within - somewhere from their roots from way, way back.

As the ceremony was drawing to its conclusion, each child was handed something by the priest - a large red love heart, another a cross made quite simply from 2 little branches, some wheat - I shall find out the meaning of these next time I pay one of our Spanish neighbours a visit.

I had just got back indoors to relate all this to Michael, when we heard singing outside the house - there was a procession making it's way up the street past the house - the 5 confirmed children, the priest, 'something' they were carrying aloft (I shall have to find out what all this is really about!) and so many villagers - so we joined them as it made its way slowly up and around the steep little lanes of this village finally coming back to the church. During the procession everything came to a standstill for a few moments where neighbours and placed little 'altars' and hung pretty shawls over their balconies - all very basic and simple yet so meaningful and a very happy experience.



I also realised how many faces amongst all those people, are now so familiar in this village of 400 or so. This is no longer (neither has it been for some while now) the unfamiliar place full of strangers, but somewhere we feel most comfortable, very welcome and happy.

And I shall find out more about the significance of some of the more unusual elements of their confirmation ceremonies.

Zuheros

Yesterday, with a free day ahead of us we decided to explore the little village of Zuheros tucked away in the northern corner of the Subbetica Natural Park which is on our doorstep - what a jewel we found! This typical Spanish pueblo blanco nestles in the shadow of the rocky wall of the Sierra with some amazing views from the miradors we discovered as we walked from the lower part of the village through tiny winding streets to the very top - the views were absolutely breathtaking and we would have reached an even higher point had the castle been open!



Much to our delight and surprise (as it was a very sleepy village that time of day with nothing whatsoever open) we happened upon a restaurant right at the top just beside the castle with incredible views from the terrace. We spent a wonderful two hours over a 3 course lunch (most indulgent for us!) as much to sample the typically local dishes on the menu as an excuse to linger longer! Having never eaten goat, I was dubious but this was my chance - it was an excellent choice - very much like lamb and absolutely delicious.

We finally managed to tear ourselves away from the peace and quiet of that terrace and those fantastic views - having first purchased some local olive oil for our salads! We meandered through the tangle of little streets of this most attractive and delightful village before arriving back at our car and heading off up the steep corkscrew of a road to the top of the rocky sierra towering over Zuheros. We found a mirador at 1,000 metres offering spectacular views down to the village and across the Subbetica Park


......... then it was further onward and upward until we finally reached the limit of our four wheels and 4 legs - and ran out of road and pathways!


We were exhausted but delighted with our day and our find!

It's amazing how sometimes setting out with little or no expectation, what the day can have in store!

With thoughts of adding Zuheros to our list of 'must see' places when friends and family visit, today we decided to search out a route using more of the minor roads running through the heart of the Subbetica Park which would make for an even more spectacular drive to Zuheros. We were doing very well until we turned off and found ourselves on an unmade track - initially believing we had taken a wrong turn, we soon realised this was it - this was the road! We drove some miles before realising that without a 4 wheel drive this was definitely not a good idea and certainly would not be particularly pleasurable for passengers - so it was turn around and bumpty bump back from whence we'd come! However, we did discover the perfect little place for lunch with table and chairs set out under the shade of an apricot tree - just beckoning us in - just as well the apricots weren't quite ripe for picking - there may have been a few less on the tree after we'd left!

The Month of May

It was the wettest, coldest most miserable winter in 50 years in this area so not the warm, sunny winter we expected in the south of Spain! When we did have the odd day of sunshine during Jan and Feb (the worst 2 months) it was like a summer's day - but they were rare. As we moved through March to April there was a gradually transition as the days grew longer and warmer and the cold weather became just a memory. Now into May the weather is settled and beautiful - clear, hot sunny days just like the hot mid-summer days back home (when we get them!).

We have now decamped to the roof terrace which has it's own outside kitchen with all amenities minus a cooker - the only reason now to use the downstairs kitchen! We have our early morning (well, not that early!) cuppa on the terrace, breakfast, lunch, dinner and when the fancy takes us an evening drink as the sun goes down and then we light the candles. This of course assuming we're at home - much of our week is taken up elsewhere - Spanish lessons, shopping, housework (minimal!), socialising, my once a week flamenco lessons, walking, exploring........ But when at home, we're on the terrace - it's our kitchen, lounge, dining room and study all rolled into one and we love it!

The beginning of May saw the finish of the olive harvest and each morning dotted around the olive groves there were spirals of smoke curling up into the air as the prunings were burnt - removal of olive wood from the groves is prohibited because of the possible spread of disease. The trees are now heavy with their blossom - a rather dull uninteresting colour but with the promise of those large, black juicy olives which will be ripe for harvesting in November.

Through April and into well into May we enjoyed an abundance of strikingly beautiful wild flowers - apparently due to the unusually wet winter, better than ever before. I had no idea this area could be made even so much more beautiful with all those flowers - springtime was an absolute delight. However, as each day has dawned the temperature has crept up a degree or two and after a few days under the intense heat of the sun saw the flowers very quickly wither and disappear. The landscape, where colourful with wild flowers and green grass, is now brown and parched. With one main exception - the good old poppies! They still flower on, those deep red heads showing up against the parched scrub and we came across a field full of them:





However, we're not completely without colour - to replace the wild flowers the many pomegranate trees are profuse in their brilliant orange blossom and the prickly pear cacti showing off their bright yellow and orange paper-like flowers.


























If I thought I would miss the birdsong back home I was much mistaken! Sitting on the terrace we are surrounded by the busy house martins and swallows, having made their nests, had their young, now feeding the little fledglings. And the single palm tree beside the church not far from us is home to what seems to be hundreds of sparrows. We also have a couple of black birds - slightly smaller than the British blackbird, with ruffled feathers atop their heads and round their necks and stumpy tails but the most delightful birdsong I have ever heard! They have nested under a roof tile in a near neighbour's roof so we have a birds' eye (forgive the pun!) view of all their activities and are quite entertained as we watch delightedly when they sit on the chimney singing their hearts out.

Some very smart black wrought-iron benches have been placed along the pavement on the road leading out of the village towards Priego where the fellas like to sit awhile - when they get pushed out of the houses from under the feet of the wives determined on their daily housework routine. However, they still prefer to use the old bits of ply spanning a couple of tree trunk stumps - the new benches they say are uncomfortable, cold in the winter and too hot in the summer! No pleasing some!

So, now early June, we are well into settled (so far!) hot summer days. The village is a very quiet place now in the heat of the mid day - not a soul about and even the little dogs who usually seek the shade against the walls of the houses, now retreat inside to the cool.

I obviously wasn't the only one drawn to this rather lovely little blue wildflower I spotted whilst out walking this morning (there is still the odd one or two battling it out with the hot sun!) ~


......... and our flowering Aloe Vera plant with El Higueral in the background:

Cordoba

Realising the diary for March, April and May was filling up fast with visits of friends and family, Michael and I decided to get our visits to to Granada, Sevilla and Cordoba booked and din the diary! By the time we arrived for our 3 night stay in Cordoba at the beginning of May, we had already paid 3 visits - one with Jon and Jen, Dad and Les then Sam and Sarah so we were beginning to feel we were getting to know the place pretty well but such a city is deserving of many visits. We had also timed our visit to coincide with the Patios Festival so there was a lot more to explore. (See separate posting for the patios.)

We were under the misguided illusion that locating our hotel would be straightforward - a little gem with its Mudejar architecture with the typical Andalucian courtyard giving it a wonderful oriental atmosphere - 4 poster bed draped in vibrantly coloured silks, richly coloured walls and gentle lighting - the perfect place to relax after a long day sightseeing. However, the reality was like finding our way (or not!) into the centre of a maze! Memories of Seville flooding back when we were completely lost driving up yet another narrow street and coming out onto a wide open plaza criss-crossed with tramlines and not a car in sight - no, don't think this is a car zone!! A policeman spotted us and sympathetically wagged a finger at us and having told us "Tom Tom mal" (though we'd long given up on Sat Nav!) gave us directions which lead us to our hotel. Cordoba appears to be a city under 'work in progress' in many areas at present and we found ourselves hampered by major roadworks which restricted traffic on the main ring road to one-way as well as various areas within the labyrinthine streets of the old quarter being blocked due to minor roadworks! How Michael kept his cool navigating around those tight, narrow little streets full of pedestrians milling about and the wares of the little shops spilling out on the streets I will never know! It seemed there was a little saucy fella somewhere up ahead playing a game with us and placing these bright yellow barriers across the street we were heading for just ahead of us! At a point where we had just about given up in complete despair and wondered if anyone would notice an abandoned Brit reg BMW wedged up the little street, M spotted a taxi driver in his cab - in no time we were heading off behind this most helpful taxi driver out of the city - we followed anxiously as we appeared to be going a long way in completely the opposite direction of our hotel but as we wove behind him through those little streets he brought us to the door of our hotel - to the immense relief of bus both and our very very grateful thanks - even more so when we discovered secure parking directly opposite the hotel - I hadn't dared let myself dwell on the prospect of having unloaded the car, driving off to find a car park! And so it was, we started our stay in Cordoba.

Cordoba has a more intimate feel than Sevilla - rather like a small provincial town. It sits alongside the River Guadalquivir and is dominated by the Mezquita. We had visited the Mezquita on two previous visits and this deserves a slot all on its own (see separate posting).

Exploring the sprawling Jewish Quarter with its labyrinth of charming narrow streets with flower-filled balconies is relaxing and fun.


Then there's the Alcazar (fortress) with its lovely gardens (another separate posting!). This is a city to stroll around and soak up the atmosphere and we spent time relaxing over a coffee or a leisurely drink and obligatory tapas in one of the intimate little plazas or by contrast the much larger plazas with their markets and shops sheltering under the arcades. There was a lovely intimate little plaza just a few hundred yards from our hotel where we enjoyed breakfast in the sunshine each morning before heading off to explore or find some more patios.

They take their dominoes very seriously:


As it's only just over an hour's drive from here I feel sure we shall return many times - to do nothing than just relax, stroll through the streets and enjoy a walk along the river.

Mezquita by night:

Cordoba - Festival de Patios (Patio Festival)

To offer an escape from the hot weather into a cool, shady and tranquil oasis, many of the houses in Cordoba have their own central patios/courtyards filled with plants and water features. For one week every May these gems are open to the public (rather like the Open Gardens scheme in England) to display their hidden wonders - and it has become quite competitive over the years with everyone fighting for the first prize! It's very well organised with maps readily available with routes marked out covering all the patios and courtyards to help you see as many as possible without continually retracing your footsteps in this labyrinthine city!

It was rather like a treasure hunt - the fun of exploring such a variety of styles and sizes and every now and then the thrill of discovering an even greater 'wow'!



It also took us in and around so many little streets we may otherwise have missed including one so narrow I'm sure if 2 opposite front doors opened up simultaneously they would collide - Calleja de Panuelo (Alley of the Handkerchief).



The patios were a feast of colourful flowers, heady scents, the gentle sound of trickling tinkling water, some with caged songbirds and some with gentle background music. Then there were the balconies with cascades of waterfall-like displays of colourful geraniums that virtually touched the ground below. The traditional homes around these patios, many with the typical cordoban arches and pillars, and interesting staircases from the patio up to the first floor of the houses, were a fascination in themselves. It was a fantastic opportunity to take a peek behind the scenes into what otherwise remain hidden from the general public. It was a most unusual experience and the thought of watering all those pots (must be hundreds in many cases) sometimes so many hanging on a wall the wall was almost hidden from sight, is quite mind-boggling! In fact they closed from 2 pm to 7 pm each day just to give the owners time to do some watering and give them a chance of a little siesta!


This week draws in the top musicians and dancers with performances either in the plazas or the larger communal courtyard. One particular evening Michael and I stumbled across the most brilliant traditional flamenco group - 2 guitarists, singers and a dancer. This was a new and exciting experience - we saw for the first time the true flamenco style - very unlike the shows staged for tourists this was the gutsy raw gypsy song and dance, deep rooted in the tradition of flamenco - it quite took my breath away and the sheer savage power and emotion pouring from the singers sent tingles down my spine - I was totally transfixed and so grateful for such an opportunity - that evening will linger long in my memory of that fascinating city.

Mezquita of Cordoba

My first reaction as I stepped inside the Mezquita (now the cathedral of Cordoba and former mosque) was immense excitement and total incredulity at the sheer scale of what was before me - a 'forest' of granite and marble pillars extending as far as the eye could see. I had the sensation of stepping into a different world from that outside. As we walked around in complete awe it was almost more than the human mind could grasp. Any description I might attempt to offer would come nowhere near giving the reader even a glimpse of this beautiful and fascinating building - so a few photos will have to suffice - the Mezquita has to be seen to be believed.














The mosque, constructed in the 8th century, was re-consecrated as a Christian church in the 13th century and in the 16th century part of the mosque was destroyed so a cathedral could be built inside. I was struck by how visually comfortably the Christian elements integrate with the Islamic architecture - chapels, paintings, altars within the heart of and around the perimeter of the mosque - to create a unique blend of the two cultures.

A bit of fun utilising the light streaming through a stained glass window:

Cordoba - Alcazar

Yet another example of the influence of Moorish culture on Spanish architecture and a fascinating place to explore. However, it was the magnificent Renaissance gardens that gripped our interest and where we spent one very pleasant afternoon strolling around listening to the relaxing sound of the water from the many fountains splashing into the pools and enjoying the aromatic flower beds. I think the pics speak for themselves - just a pity I can't add that wonderful sound that accompany this garden! You'll just have to use your imagination and add the warmth of the sunshine and birdsong around you!













Michael dwarfed by the Cypresses!!

92nd Birthday Party!

Towards the end of April my father and his pal Les flew out to stay with us for 2 weeks.
They arrived in rather a sorry state, both having suffered heavy colds and left with chesty coughs added to which Dad had conjunctivitis! Both aged 91 it was a feat in itself to have flown out to see us. The weather was not good during the first week being cold and grey so they both took the opportunity for lots of rest and relaxation and spent their days in front of the gas heater doing their code and crosswords, reading and chatting - and they say women can talk for England.............. !!
They had the odd little stroll through the village and even went into the local bar where Les ordered coffees which they enjoyed in the company of the locals. My father had no Spanish whatsoever, Les had a few words plus his old faithful yellowed Spanish phrase book which he used repeatedly and most successfully!



A week on and they were both picking up well so we arranged for a few of the English folks in the village to meet in the bar at 4 o'c on the Saturday afternoon where we'd planned a little surprise gathering for Les's 92nd birthday (which was the following Monday). He was taken utterly by surprise and was absolutely delighted - he received gifts and cards and at the appropriate moment the cake we had put behind the bar earlier, appeared, with candle! As the Spanish folks drifted into the bar and realised what was going on they came over to shake his hand and wish him "Feliz Cumpleanos. Les was completely bowled over by all the fuss and reckoned it was his best birthday ever.



On the Monday we had arranged to take them both to The Alhambra Palace in Granada - our third visit now but a place I would never ever tire of exploring. For both Dad and Les this was a dream come true - a place they'd heard of, seen many pictures of, read about, seen on TV and never in their wildest dreams expected to actually visit. It was the first day since their arrival too that the temperature crept up a little and the sun showed itself - the perfect weather. We took them first to the Mirador across the valley for that all important and famous view of The Alhambra before arranging to get the to the Palace grounds by taxi - too steep a climb and access prohibited for private vehicles.



It was a very very special few hours - to share the experience with them both and see them so absorbed and delighted in all they saw. We rounded off the visit with a lovely meal on the terrace of a nearby restaurant which made for just about a perfect day as anyone could wish for - them for realising their dreams and for me, to be able to make this possible for my Dad.
And if Les thought the little get-together on the Saturday was great this was the absolutely tops - never has he had such a birthday he reckoned!

The rest of the week was filled with a trip to a very special place nearby we have discovered - a little church perched atop a mountain some 1,217 metres above sea level where one is rewarded with spectacular far reaching views after a pretty hair-raising drive up the narrow winding approach road.
We visited the mirador by the dam at Iznajar lake. Much to our utter amazement, whilst visiting the town of Iznajar perched atop a hill, Dad and Les made the final steep climb to reach the church at the very top of the town. They were well rewarded and very touched by the invitation extended to all of us by the owner of one of the little houses in the courtyard nearby to take a seat under the shade of her porch! What hospitality - and more wonderful views from her little porch too.


We made a trip to the local Anis factory where we were able to sample quite a few different types - more than a sensible few I guess judging by the giggling that went on afterwards! We also visited the Jamon (ham) museum which was as interesting for the wonderful array of meats and various homemade little goodies on sale in the butchers shop at the front of the museum - needless to say we were treated to some of the selection for our supper that evening! Now a butcher's shop a definite for a return visit with empty shopping bag and full purse.




Before their return home, we made one final trip - another dream realised for them both: Cordoba. Particularly the Mezquita (see separate posting as this deserves one all on its own!). To visit the Alhambra then find themselves walking across the old Roman Bridge in Cordoba with the Mezquita directly in front of them then to explore the Mezquita and wander the little tiny narrow streets of the old quarter of Cordoba was almost too much to believe - they were in awe.

So I think all in all (in fact I know since we've had 2 lovely letters from them both since their return home to the UK) they had a super time.

Oh, and I forgot to mention the little puppy that almost became a firm member of the family! Whilst in the bar celebrating Les's birthday a family came in with 2 little pups. One was promptly deposited in my arms by their little daughter and seemed so happy cuddling into my scarf and neck, eventually falling asleep I'm not sure who was the most reluctant to let go - the pup or myself! I've never owned a dog and never had the desire but that was a tough one! And I do believe had we not been on our 'travels' he would now be well settled with us!