DASH TO THE SUN !!

Folkestone

28 Oct

Stopping en route to Folkestone, we spent a couple of hours with Diane and John, friends who go back too many years to count and whom we've not seen for over 5 years.  Would love to have spent longer with them but time was getting on and we needed to reach our campsite - though we know the site from a previous stay.

Heading off in the dark (clocks went back Sunday so plunged into autumnal darkness before we're prepared!),  the Sat Nav is primed but, even in the dark, nothing appears familiar as Sat Nav tells us "You have reached your destination".  But we're sitting in a residential cul-de-sac!!  Maybe we were a bit premature on taking that last turn?  Reversing, re-positioning and back on the main road we continue, but again:  "You have reached your destination".  Now there is a campsite sign but we've not been here before! All very mysterious and perplexing. Peering into the darkness all we can see is a narrow track disappearing into the gloom with a sign "No caravans".   With difficulty we are now reversing back onto the main road (thankfully rush hour long gone so not heaving with traffic).  Normally our compact very manoeuvrable 'go anywhere' home on wheels, in a trice, feels like a monster!  Having seen Michael safely back onto the main road a voice appears out of nowhere "Are you looking for the campsite?"   I shout back "I can hear you but can't see you".  My eyes adjust and I spot a dark figure standing in front of the bungalow across the main road.  Apparently that track is the way to the site - the sign is to prohibit caravans but motor homes are fine.  Well, it's not where we expected to be but it's a campsite! Still very puzzled,  We reverse a tad further and inch around 180 degrees to make our way onto this narrow track - in the light of full beam headlamps we just make out a winding, potholed steep track which seems endless but finally brings us to a campsite.  Well, where are we?  Certainly NOT the site we stayed before.  Then and, unbelievably, only then do I recall us checking the site details of this the campsite only the previous day and remarking as we looked at the illustration of the site how strange we hadn't noticed how close we'd been to the sea - and on a clifftop!!   How dappy are we??!  That photo should have at least triggered a slight tweak of a doubt we'd perhaps inadvertently booked a different site from last time!!  Ah well, put it down to yet another joint senior moment!

Calais to Pont Authou (Rouen)

29 Oct

From our pitch we would have had a splendid view across the channel were it not for the very misty, drizzly, windy  morning we have woken up to. 

We're so thankful we're not embarking on the rough seas of the morning but heading for the tunnel.  A welcome bacon butty and coffee in the terminal, I grab a French phrase book from the bookseller - might as well have a go at brushing up my extremely rusty schoolgirl French - and we're boarding the 10.20 train.  

We hit French soil and head off on the 3½ hour journey to Pont Authou, south west of Rouen, where one of the few campsites in France remains open this time of the year.

I do wonder at all the fuss about wind farms - they are such a familiar sight on French soil - the  gentle rhythmical turning of their giant elegant sails - I love  to see the gentle giants.

We whizz straight through the first toll with credit card, no problems,  but the next toll creates a puzzle.  It spews back my credit card and the barrier remains firmly in place.  After a few more futile efforts, another vehicle behind us by then, I finally resort to pressing the 'ASSIST' button.  Having established where we'd come from I am asked to insert the 'ticket' again - still doesn't want my credit card.  Couple more attempts and finally the barrier miraculously lifts!  As I clamber back into the cab M remarks I had been asked for 'ticket' not credit card!  Oh, so the ticket issued at the first toll is to be used thereafter at subsequent tolls until the final booth where the credit card for final payment is accepted!  I'm learning (or I've forgotten from last time?!!) - though not fast enough it seems as we appear to have paid way, way over the odds.  We're giving up on toll roads and trying the non-toll route tomorrow!

Driving through Rouen I was full of admiration for Michael's navigation skills (not to say his relaxed attitude with which he greeted the challenge).  Very heavy traffic, interconnecting roads, lanes narrowed or closed due to road works - vehicles were going in every direction with very little manoeuvring room.

We arrive mid afternoon at our municipal campsite across from the village of Pont Authou -

where we enjoy an amble - our first taste of France in a while and it feels grand being underway once more. 

I do wonder however,  how we manage to muddle the simplest 
of tasks ? 
This is one for you Sam, having remarked more than once "How do you guys ever manage to get anywhere?" - we do!!

La Aux Ville Dames (Tours)

30 October

We are back on the road for 10.15 on a light misty sunny autumnal morning which creates some wonderful lights and shadows across the fields and village beyond our pitch.  After the heavy showers and very poor visibility of yesterday's drive, today has stayed dry and we've even seen the sun - and temperatures are definitely on the way up!  A much more interesting journey off the roll roads, through pretty little French villages and towns.  We land up in La Aux Ville Dames just outside Tours at La Acacias campsite (so named for all the surrounding Acacia trees) in time to catch some afternoon sun and enjoy a wander around the local neighbourhood - a residential area with some very attractive varying architecturally styled houses.  We discover the little shop on site stocks the local 'champagne' which  tastes just as delicious as any good champagne I've ever had.  At €8.50 a bottle there are now a few more bottles stashed away for future consumption!  

Tours
31 October
A short bus ride from just outside the campsite takes us into the city of Tours which offers many distractions and delights, particularly the old quarter - all much enhanced with  sunny skies and lovely warm temperatures -  it's T-shirt weather! 

Place Jean Jaurès

Charlemagne Tower -
is all that remains of St Martin's church  - apparently one of the largest religious edifices in all Christendom.

A small oratory was built over the grave of St Martin, Bishop of Tours, when he died in 397.

This was followed later by a grander edifice - the Basilica of St Martin - which in 818 became a collegiate church with a chapter of 200 canons.   This edifice was entirely rebuilt during the early 11th century and added to over time resulting in the magnificent church it became.  By the end of the 18th century it had fallen into such a state of disrepair it was pulled down to make way for city development.  

The new Basilica of St Martin -
late nineteenth-century neo-Byzantine - erected to honour the relics of St Martin which were rediscovered in 1860 and now housed in the crypt, the walls of which are carved with hundreds of  prayers dedicated to the Saint

Crypt housing the relics and shrine to St Martin

Dipping in and around the narrow backstreets we find many delightful little timbered houses, many squished into tight corners or shaped to fit any space available.

We settle at a little restaurant just off the very popular Place Plumereau packed with its cafes/bars and restaurants and rise to the challenge of choosing from the menu without any translations and discover we've made excellent choices for our 3 courses.   Though had to chuckle when Michael showed a Frenchman how to eat the 'escargot' he'd ordered!!  The chap was most grateful - though didn't offer us one to try!!

Cathedral St Gatien

This incredibly imposing building with its flamboyant facade didn't disappoint inside either with its long nave flanked by massive columns and high above, down each side, more stained glass than I have ever seen.  Absolutely stunning - the sheer vastness of those windows too much of a challenge for me to capture on camera!

Even the railway station was rather spectacular!

While waiting for the bus back to our campsite I enjoy wandering through the flower market - many stall holders preparing for the forthcoming Halloween celebrations!

... even this guy's getting into the swing of things!

November
1st - Bordeaux

Leaving Tours behind  we enjoy our journey through the Loire countryside - a canvas of mellow autumnal colours set against azure blue skies.  Shards of sunlight pierce through the trunks of the towering  slender trees of the The Foret de Chinon where we spot a fellow here and there with his truffle basket and foraging stick.  The sprawling vineyards displaying vines now turning rich golden colour and the last of the rapeseed creating swathes of yellow across the landscape.  We arrive at our campsite just outside Bordeaux - rather a contrast to the last site where we had so much space - here it's tricky manoeuvring onto the pitch it's so tight! We may just move on tomorrow!  And we're fed up with today anyway.............. 

They say things come in '3's'!  En route to this site  we'd just enjoyed a lunch stop in a wooded picnic area when M had the misfortune to step into some dog  s*** - though by good fortune just realised it before stepping into the motor home!   After a clean up of footwear/steps we were back on the road.  Somehow that diversion had interrupted our 'check list' before setting off and a few miles down the round as we navigated a tight corner there was an almighty crash - the main kitchen drawer had shot straight out of its housing unit onto the floor.  The last time this happened (embarrassed to admit this has occurred on a number of occasions!) the drawer collapsed into its numerous counterparts but with metal brackets and concrete-style glue M fixed it.  Obviously very expertly since this time the drawer survived in one piece - though we do have rather a dent in the floor!  So on arrival at camp our the first task was to empty the drawer of all its contents and reduce the weight for M to refit - job done!  Let's have a cuppa!  Hmmm,  what's up with the kettle?  No electric?  Having checked the polarity, fuses and connections Michael got the electric back but as soon as I plug in the kettle again - bang goes the electric again - it's the kettle!  So off we go tomorrow to find another - now what are the chances of us finding a low wattage kettle??! Thankfully our little camping kettle is on hand to use on the gas.  Ah well, tomorrow's another day . . . . . . . . .

2nd - Espana!  Here we come! 

Torrential rain during the night leaving the site awash confirms our decision to move on.  I do harbour the thought however that maybe Michael actually prayed for rain so we would motor on and reach his beloved Spanish sunshine without delay!

Though the Pyrenees are masked by misty murky weather, the pretty alpine style dwellings are a giveaway as to where we were.  By lunch time we are entering Spain - the clouds have broken, blue sky is appearing and we can feel the warm sunshine through the cab window.  Driving through the green clad hills and mountains beyond  it feels liberating, a real tonic after the grey dismal weather - everything suddenly looks brighter, crisper, cleaner - and promising!  

We take a break for lunch at an Auto Grill.  I clamber out to stand behind behind the vehicle to guide Michael into a parking slot and notice he's pointing to the opposite side so I move to the other side of the vehicle - again he's pointing - the other way this time!  What is he trying to do!!  Little am I aware of a guy chasing round this way and that clutching my seat pad which has apparently fallen out of the vehicle with me!!  How we all laugh at this one - and how kind of the gentleman too!

We arrive in Haro in the heart of the Rioja region - the sun is shining and the mountains are glorious!!  The town is full it seems of nothing other than bodegas!  Having pitched up in a lovely little site we enjoy our first glimpse of Haro, the rest to be explored tomorrow.   

We round our day off with a couple glass of one of the delicious the local Riojas in the campsite bar - and purchase a few Riojas to add to our 'cellar'!

3rd - Haro
The day dawns bright and we explore the town - what a treat to have all this on our doorstep.  We even manage to find a little low watt kettle!  Having topped up on a few provisions, disappointingly the weather deteriorates and the rain returns.

Our cute little lodger keeps us company (or we do him?) - 
he just made himself at home while we were there!

Bodegas as far as the eye can see!

A few typical sculptures 

You really can't forget you're in wine country here!!

Parroquia St Thomas

Basilica

"Anyone for coffee?"

What a captivating sculpture this is

4th - Toledo

As we leave the region of Rioja the road takes us through such a tapestry of colours - russet browns, crimson reds and golds, yellows and greens of the turning vines as far as the eye can see. 

Our first sight of Toledo is from the highway some distance from the city which is a great help navigating our way there as the SatNav appears to have become very confused with a new road layout!  As we drive along the road below the city with its Alcazar perched on high it simply takes my breath away - a truly magnificent sight.  We arrive at a gem of a campsite which looks out across the city and this is a first - a restaurant on site which is actually open!! We indulge in a late lunch looking out across to the city so tantalizing close and which holds all those secrets waiting for us to uncover tomorrow.

5th and 6th -  Exploring Toledo

Just a short walk from the campsite brings us down to the riverside then across the lovely old St Martin bridge into the city 

Sitting on a rocky bluff surrounded by the winding Tagus River on three sides, we discover the old town of Toledo is a pure treasure chest of ancient historic buildings rising in their grandeur above a labyrinth of narrow, winding cobbled streets lined with intimate little cafes, bars and souvenir shops.  Out in the open plazas - more restaurants and cafes where we can sit and take it all in - so much to absorb.

The Cathedral: simply stunning for all its magnificence and beauty within its cavernous interior.

Door of the Lions

Section of the almost lace-like retable of the High Altar
(6 years in the making!)

\

Inside of the Choir

  

Narciso Tomé's Baroque altarpiece - an enormous concave screen of bronze and marble.

And my absolute favourite was the skylight illuminating this altarpiece  Once completed, in order to illuminate the altarpiece (known as The 'Transparente') Tomé pierced the dome above which he then decorated with sculptures and paintings.  This held me spellbound - it was so unique and alluring one felt drawn up into it.  

Vaulted ceiling of the Sacristy decorated by Luca Giordano

El Greco's first masterpiece: 'Spoliation' - The Disrobing of Christ

This striking painting hangs above the altar at the far end of the Sacristy - surely a painting that moves every viewer.

Stripped of his garments before his crucifixion, Christ's face is illuminated above the flame red tunic and his selfless gaze seemingly saying he is already unattainable.  

Section of ceiling and frescoes in the Chapel of St Blaise

The stunning murals covering the alcoves around the cloisters

By contrast the Synagogue of Santa Maria La Blanca is  tiny,  painted mainly white with wonderful stucco work - its beauty is in its simplicity

We had spent so much time in the cathedral and felt quite drained (in the nicest of ways!)  by all we had absorbed and enjoyed, the late afternoon sun is fast disappearing, we have been on our feet (all but a short break for a snack lunch) for over 6 hours so we decide to call it a day and head back to camp!

Still under bright blue skies, we return for our second day in this unique city.  Overwhelmed yesterday but a second day delving yet further into this gem is even more mind-boggling.
We make a late breakfast our first stop to give us the fuel needed for the day!

Wonderful views across Toledo from the wall of Puerta del Sol

Puerta del Sol

Mezquita Cristo de la Luz

This tiny yet beautiful 1,000 year old mosque originally measured only about 8 sq metres. The apse was added when it was converted into a church. 
It is said that during 1085 when Alfonso VI conquered Toledo his horse stopped outside the mosque and refused to go on. Apparently there was a statue of Christ with its oil lamp still burning more than 3 centuries after being left there!

Iglesia de San Ildefonso (Jesuits)

The Reliquary

We venture up inside one of the towers and once at the top out in the open, are well rewarded with panoramic views stretching across rooftops, the network of streets of the city and countryside beyond. How lucky we are to have such glorious clear weather.

Time out for lunch:  Carcamusas a la Toledana
and absolutely delicious it was!

Monasterio San Juan de Los Reyes
(Church of St John of the Kings)

Tall and imposing, on the edge of the city, stands the 15th century Franciscan monastery.   I'm simply running out of superlatives! 

On a rather more morbid note: the chains dangling from this facade once belonged to Christian prisoners who were liberated from Muslim Granada. 

Tiny section of one of the enormous ornate columns of the central nave - such delicate and incredible stone masonry

This was so incredibly lifelike it had me spellbound

Upper cloisters

The cloisters were a combination of Gothic and Mudejar architecture which sit perfectly and so effectively together.

Section of Cloister ceiling panelling

Lower cloisters

Shadow play 

Collection Corner:

 









In addition to its fame for sword making, Toledo is the home of Damascene - crafted by engraving deep patterned cuts into steel into which fine gold foil is then hammered to create exquisite jewellery and other small items. It seemed every other shop was either selling Damasquino - or swords (albeit now for more ornamental purposes!). 

There's also the famous marzipan! Supposedly invented by the nuns of Toledo and now considered the most prestigious in the world!  We found it virtually in every other establishment - confectioneries, patisseries, on sale from private houses and of course the convent - this was their window display!    
(No worries Jon:  we remembered your love of marzipan!)

At the end of our second day, foot-weary but contented and full of joy and elation at all this magnificent city has to offer we round the final corner to find an orderly queue of hundreds people of which we can see no end.  Our curiosity gets the better of us and we discover at the head of the queue, the food pantry of Toledo providing free food, groceries and many other aid to needy families.  Such a stark contrast and wake-up call - here we are secure and happy, having the time of our lives in our own little cosy world where we want for nothing, looking on at these folks simply just trying to exist.  Boy, oh boy does an experience such as this make us realise how very, very fortunate and blessed we are.

Toledo - now among my list of top cities.  I was overwhelmed, surrounded by the intimacy of this unique city with so much beauty and magnificence in one place yet a relaxed easy going atmosphere - perfection.

7th and 8th

There's nothing for it - time to leave and we're off to Santa Elena with that sinking feeling when one feels that wrench on leaving but, so much more left for another time!  The skies are grey so we've certainly enjoyed Toledo in the best weather! Once on the open road it opens up in front of us for miles and miles - quite endless!  It cuts through fields of rich red soil, vineyards, hills and finally the familiar site of olive groves begin to appear.  We find our site in Santa Elena on the outskirts of a disappointingly non-descript village.  Reception is all locked up with no evidence of when someone may appear.  We decide to find a pitch - not difficult in this vast site under the pine trees with one lonely caravan in situ!  So maybe after a hot cuppa everything will seem a tad more appealing?  Maybe but there was no electricity! OK, could heat water on the gas but we we're beginning to feel this was the last place we want to be spending the night.  It's raining, dismal and any possible views are masked by the poor weather. Before anyone appears should we beat a hasty retreat?  Not much of a dilemma and we're soon back on the road again but having no idea where we're going now!  We pull into the next service station.  Out come the maps and campsite books - a site near the Sierra Nevada, Granada looks a possible.  Ah, no internet signal (just when we need it!) to check directions/GPS co-ords  so I telephone ahead for directions and are told just follow the signs!  He doesn't mention the site is over 1,000m high up with a hairpin of a drive to reach it but when we eventually arrive - WOW - this is spectacular - more like it!! What a spot.  We receive a  lovely warm welcome from the guy on reception, find the best stocked onsite supermarket I've ever seen, the bar and restaurant open all hours, spectacular views - even the weather has bucked up as we've put those miles behind us.  This is an unbelievable bonus find which we could so easily have bypassed!  A nice little twist in our plans! It meant far more miles driving than our usual goal but Michael seems to love driving on these open roads. 

We settle on a great little pitch in a near empty campsite - even have our own olive tree in our cosy bay. This will do us for a day or two even if just to relax and soak all this up!  Just minutes to set up home and we were off to find the bar with it's lovely log fire which entices us to stay on for a delicious supper. 




The extra bonus was that en route down so many site facilities were closed due to it being 'out of season'  so to find everything open was very gratifying.  Don't care what the weather throws at us, this is a great place to stay just to soak up the atmosphere and enjoy the facilities - a liberating feel good factor!

The following day we venture out and at the end of a long climb up we reach the little village of Guejar Sierra - a small yet pretty little working village way off the tourist trek - what unexpected gems there are to be found off the main drag!

Though reluctant to leave we decide it's time to put this autumnal chilly weather behind us and head off the following morning to hopefully find some warmer weather at our final destination: Cabopino on the Costa del Sol.  Though not before enjoying another evening with some wine and tapas in front of that wonderful log fire!

9th - Twelve days and 1573 miles later:  CABOPINO!!

A late breakfast first (yes, of course, in front of the log fire). Though there was a slight misunderstanding in the language! I ordered "tostada con tomate con aceite" (simply toasted baguette sprinkled with olive oil with pulped tomato - particularly delicious with a good olive oil!).  Michael ordered "bacon, con tomate, con huevos" (bacon and eggs!). Somehow the waiter decided we both needed everything ........................
- along with freshly squeezed orange juice and coffee.  All that's left to be said here is:  it certainly set us up for the day!  (And only cost around £4 each!)

We head away midday from Guejar Sierra with snow capped mountains in the distance to our final destinationwhere we intend to make ourselves at home until mid December when we fly back to the UK for Christmas and New Year. 

Having added the miles to the previous leg, this proves to be a comparatively short journey and we land up at Cabopino early afternoon.  Having found our favoured pitch with some sunshine - the majority of pitches are under the shade of the pine trees which is great for the summer but for winter sunshine - I think not! - we''re off to familiarise ourselves with what is to be our home for the next 5 weeks.  The lovely long soft sandy beach just across the road:

The 'recycled teenagers' have landed!

"Is mum under the table already ?!"

with an excellent choice of bars and restaurants. Such a bonus finding everything open - but here of course, folks come to enjoy the winter sunshine so everything stays open all winter! And just along the beach is the pretty little Cabopino harbour

Sitting on the harbour wall watching the sunset

Heard of Cat on a hot tin roof ?   Well this is 'Cats on hot rocks' 

We round off a very satisfying and happy, happy day with supper at the Italian restaurant on site (where they also offer a Take Away service - could come in handy me thinks!).

I had felt a tad apprehensive at the idea of staying in the same place for 5 weeks - we soon discover we've landed up at a superb site - a comfortable, happy haven for 5 weeks!  Everything we could wish for in amenities including a lovely (rather chilly!) outdoor pool - hopefully the indoor pool with sauna will be refurbed by beginning December. However with the promise of warm weather and sunshine we can make good use of the sunbeds around the pool! There are a variety of exercise classes 5 days a week, an outdoor gym, Spanish lessons, cookery classes, shooting, archery, petanque - the list just goes on!.

I DON'T THINK IT'S GOING TO BE TOO MUCH OF A PROBLEM ENJOYING THE NEXT FIVE WEEKS HERE!