TEWKESBURY, SNOWDONIA AND ANGLESEY

1/2 July - Tewkesbury

A quintessentially English delight - a medieval market town standing at the confluence of the River Severn and Avon.  Not such a peaceful place back in 1471 - the surrounding fields saw the penultimate and decisive battle of the Wars of the Roses.  We, however, from our campsite within just a few yards of the town, enjoyed a gentle day exploring the fascinating narrow alleyways,  a relaxing boat trip on the river, stroll along the river bank with still time to sit and ponder in the pretty gardens - so many things to see and do. 

All aboard the Tewkesbury Belle - we're assured the alligator doesn't bite!

Beautiful 12th century Norman Abbey dominating the town

Detail of Chapel of the Holy Trinity

Ceiling of the Presbytery

Detail of one of the Tom Denny Windows

Mural in The Chapel of  the Holy Trinity

SNOWDONIA
3 July
Arriving at Plas Gwyn campsite in Llanrug, just outside Llanberis, we found a very warm welcome at this family run site with a wonderful array of essentials and consumables stacked high on the shelves in the little reception room and all the facilities we could want - home from home. 

5 July - The Summit

Yesterday was spent inside taking refuge from torrential rain, today dawned bright with good visibility so decision made - we would walk to the summit of  Snowdon - and take the train back.  Best laid plans!  We discovered only the slimmest chance of there being a seat on the train for the descent so we faced the prospect of walking both ways!

The climb was tougher than I'd expected - mostly due the challenging areas underfoot!  However with rest and photo stops en route we made it to the summit at 1085 metres in 3½ hours with an incredible buzz of elation and immense sense of achievement - I had actually reached the summit of Snowdon on foot! The longest and toughest walk in all my 65 years on this planet.  Jon, some years back, having achieved the 3 Peaks Challenge in under 24 hours (Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdon)  suggested climbing  Snowdon was within Michael and my capability. The idea has been residing in my mind ever since!

The weather couldn't have been kinder to us - some sunshine but not too hot for walking and the visibility was brilliant!  

Leaving Llanberis behind us

It looks a very long way from here!

That's the way to do it!

As we made our ascent the views  became increasingly spectacular 

Just a few more steps ..........

and we make it!

From the summit we spied down on the world before us and into the far distance to the snaking coastline of Wales. 

So would it be train or own endeavours for the descent?  We decided it was job half done if we didn't return on foot!  Maybe not the best decision? Certainly I wouldn't wish to experience again the pain in my toes every step I took during that descent, yet the knowledge we managed that 10 mile challenge will give me a little glow inside each time I look back on the experience!

The agony and  ..................

....... the ecstasy!

"Cheers!"

As we emerged out onto the main road Michael recognised the Victoria Hotel  and recalled the thrill and sense of pride of seeing Jon and his team running down the last stretch on the very last leg to the finishing line which marked the end of the 3 Peaks challenge.  

We enjoyed one of the most refreshing drinks ever before heading back to Poppy and our campsite for hot showers and feet up for the remainder of the evening before collapsing into bed, very foot and limb weary, but oh so contented - though I expected we'd still be walking in our dreams! 

I am in awe of Jon and all those before and since who have completed the 3 Peaks Challenge. It took us 6½ hours just to walk Snowdon; the thought of climbing both Ben Nevis and Scafell Pike as well as all the travelling in between and achieved within 24 hours seems quite to defy all human endeavour ! 

6 July - I bought some much needed new boots!

7 July - Caernarfon

Caernarfon Castle, built by Edward I - with its commanding presence and sheer scale totally dominates the town which seems almost miniature by comparison!  We enjoyed a couple of hours pootling around the little narrow streets and attractive market square before exploring the castle then topped off our visit by a visit to the famous ice cream parlour, Palas Caffi, where I eventually managed to settle on one flavour amongst the amazingly unusual and very tempting choices - New York cheesecake which certainly tickled the taste buds!

Overall we enjoyed the town of Caernarfon with the history of time so tangible as we explored the narrow streets but it was sad to see so many abandoned and neglected little shops which I felt rather let it down though this is purely a personal observation.

I can spot the ice cream parlour !!

'Journeys unknown'

8 July - The Easy Way

The day dawned bright so off to Llanberis for the train journey to the summit of Snowdon - supposedly the most spectacular rail journey.   I feel sure it would have been most spectacular but by the time we boarded the train the clouds had rolled in and long before we reached the summit the views were totally obscured by cloud. With nil visibility at the summit it was a hot cup of coffee before boarding the train for the return journey by which time we were travelling through heavy rain so even when we emerged from the clouds the lashing rain on the windows obscured much of any view we might have enjoyed!   So at least we can say we have seen Snowdon in contrasting moods. We also decided walking is by far the better way to enjoy 360^o views which are impossible from a train. 

All Aboard!

The Summit

"Can't see a thing!"

...... and neither can they!

Lost in the mist ...

9 - 13 July - Anglesey

A day spent travelling around this island taking in the attractive little seaside resort of Beaumaris:

A grey cloudy start which soon gave way to blue skies

Purported to be the oldest house in Britain - built in 1400

the expansive sweeping light golden sands of Benllech 

then up to Holyhead which exceeded my minimal expectation of a busy ferry port with its interesting shopping centre and pretty marina.  The ancient St Cybi's church, with its fascinating layers of history, was built where originally there stood a Roman fort.  
King Maelgwyn of Gwynedd gave Cybi land within the walls of an abandoned Roman fort to build a religious settlement - an interesting transition from fort to a place of worship and peace.  In spite of raids and attacks by Vikings and English over the centuries, St Cybi's has survived for over 1500 years.  It seemed a strange name but I discovered the Welsh name for Holyhead is Caergybi, meaning Cybi's fort.    

Tympanum frieze - above porch door and porch ceiling

St David's Chapel, windows designed by pre-Raphaelite artists William Morris and Edward Burne Jones

We sat by the marina watching the little private sailing vessels bobbing on the water and beyond to the huge sleek ferries gliding into port.  Heading southward down the west coast we reached the village of Aberffraw sitting by the estuary of Afon Ffraw and the incredibly wide expanse of sand dunes from the top of which when we climbed up were more sand dunes as far as the eye could see!  The beach was at least half a mile along the sandy river bank from the village which sat beside this wide expanse of dunes.  It struck me as a rather unusual landscape.

Back at our campsite in Llanrug that evening we decided Anglesey deserved more of our time so we returned.

Our first night was spent at Whitelodge Site in Newborough with views overlooking the mountains of Snowdonia and the Llyn Peninsula.  

The little bistro on site served food created with such passion and ingenuity we were certainly treated to unusual combinations which were absolutely delicious! Michael devoured a leg of lamb served with mackerel and I had salt cod Moroccan style all followed by a pleasant evening  sharing a couple bottles of wine with our neighbouring campers.  The following two nights we stayed at the sister site on the edge of Newborough forest with Llanddwyn beach a mile away.

Crwth, Footprints and Flies!

First to explore was the little town of Newborough and quite unexpectedly, almost as if it was without consequence or importance we came across the recently excavated site of  one of the royal courts (llysoedds) of one of the Princes ruling North Wales more than 700 years ago - Llys Rhosyr.
The 800 year long dynasty was crushed when King Edward I invaded Wales and its court buildings abandoned.   Over the centuries this and other similar court sites were lost to history until just 20 years ago when an archaeologist discovered the ruins of  Llys Rhosyr.  
Totally coincidental but fortuitous we then happened upon a Community Day run by the National Museum Wales in the village. One of the exhibits was an artist's impression of Llys Rhosyr that is to be built at the open-air museum in Cardiff where to date more than 40 buildings have been moved from various locations and rebuilt show-casing the lifestyle and culture of the Welsh over the centuries.  The exhibition also included a fascinating collection of archaic instruments. We had the opportunity of listening to a recording of the Welsh Harp as it was originally played using the one and only surviving piece of medieval sheet music in the entire world for this instrument - amazing how just this one piece survived and even more incredible that someone has meticulously and painstakingly worked through the hieroglyphics to work it out!   

 

The Welsh hornpipe "Pibgorn" (Pib: pipe;  gorn: horn)  was originally crafted by shepherds which they would play as a form of amusement during the long hours of shepherding.  These 2 were made, and played for us, by the music enthusiast  on hand to guide visitors through all these instruments and their absorbing history.

Though the repertoire of tunes is very limited, the tradition of playing the Crwth  has been revived and  many traditional tunes can be adapted and are being written for it.



Having been rather well educated for a couple of hours we finally emerged into the sunshine and headed through Newborough forest towards the beach.  It was only a mile to the beach but eventually we realised we'd walked well beyond a mile before finally emerging from the forest out onto the sand dunes and onto the vast sandy beach - a 30 minute stroll had turned into a 1½ hour hard walk!  And we were far from our intended destination: Ynys Llanddwyn Island. Oh well, always another day.

Ynys Llanddwyn Island in the distance - an important nature reserve

Heading back to camp was a tad traumatic when I was 'buzzed' by an accumulating cloud of very persistent flies!  They had me screaming from under the protection of my hooded fleece which I had over my head like a blanket to protect my face and bare shoulders leaving just the tiniest peephole so I could see where I was going!  I could feel the panic rising as the buzzing grew louder and louder and flies continued to gather in their numbers - I was apparently smothered! Oh the vision!!  Makes me chuckle now to think what a strange sight I must have been to those passing by in their cars! Shame no-one stopped to offer assistance but guess they didn't fancy all those flies either!   However, before I totally lost the plot they did slowly lessen in number and I was finally able to reappear from under my 'blanket' and  the remainder of our walk was peaceful - and shorter as we found the quicker route back! The flies was the strangest phenomenon but apparently not unknown on that bit of the road - so said our site manager! 

Arrows!

The following day we set off down through the forest again to find Ynys Llanddwyn Island and discovered why we lost our way yesterday:

We followed the direction of the footprint - totally missing the large white arrow!!  Sam's remark came back to haunt me "I don't know how you 2 ever find your way anywhere!".
 

The tide was out when we reached the bay (in just a short 30 minute stroll!) which allowed us to walk along the sands to Ynys Llanddwyn Island.  



From along the top we could look back along both Llanddwyn and Maltraeth bays, created by this narrow spit of land.

Cross in memory of St Dwynwen Jan 1465

View through ruins of St Dwynwen's church

This had been one of Anglesey's wealthiest churches, dedicated to St Dwynwen.  King Henry VIII's split with the Catholic church ended the pilgrimages to this church and the parish's major source of income. The lead and timber were removed and over time the church left to crumble.

"Are you sitting comfortably?"  "Not really, these pillows are a tad hard!"

These pillow-shaped rocks, some of the oldest on Anglesey were formed by lava bubbling out of the seabed. I wouldn't recommend them for sleeping on!

By the time we headed back it was drizzling - but what's a little cooling rain versus pesky flies!!  

South Stack 
Over 1,000* steps took us the round trip from the cliff tops down to Ellin's Tower, up across the cliff top and down to cross the bridge, over the surging sea crashing against the rocks 60 metres below, to the tiny islet of South Stack and the lighthouse that's been guiding ships since 1809. The ledges on the cliffs were crammed with thousands of noisy fulmars and guillemots - and I spotted one lonely puffin!!

   *So said the lighthouse keeper!  

Up until the original iron bridge was erected in 1828, the short chasm from mainland to South Stack was connected by a hempen cable along which a sliding basket carried passengers and stores. The bridge for me any day!   And up until the early 1900's a donkey would bring the stores down the flight of those 400 steps cut into the cliff face then up he'd go again.   

Spot Michael   And I haven't tipped him over the edge!

View from lighthouse across to those 400 zigzag steps 

Ellin's Tower 

15th July - Yodel!

Not the musical version but a delivery company!  Our absolutely essential in-use-daily Remoska cooker developed a fault and one phone call to Lakeland produced the promise of a brand new model delivered within 24 hours.  Ordered whilst in Anglesey we chose to return to the site at Llanrug, an easier find for the delivery man we felt than the wilds of where we'd been.  

And since this was just down the road from our campsite, we couldn't resist a visit:

Translation:  "The church of Mary in the hollow of the White Hazel near the fierce whirlpool and the church of  Tysilio by the Red Cave" - so now you know!

Change of Plan

From Snowdonia we were heading southward to the Brecon Beacons before our eventual return to West Sussex.  Then off down to the West Country having accepted an invitation from Abi's parents to join for a while, their family holiday in Wells. Fortuitously I thought I'd give Abi's parents a call just to check out details and discovered the venue is not Wells, Somerset BUT Wells Next The Sea, Norfolk! Slight difference in the geographical location so after the giggles and chuckles, out came the map to see where next from Snowdonia before Norfolk in August!  

So now we say 'au revoir' to Wales with its stunning scenery, spectacular cliffs, sandy beaches and friendly people and head for the Peak District, Derbyshire.