Oh, those steps!!

John O' Groats

5th - 8th Sept

A very exposed site, we were pitched with wonderful panoramic views across the stormy tidal waters of the Pentland Firth - and to the Orkney Islands which appear and disappear as the weather changes!  The site was virtually empty - perhaps others knew something we didn't!!  Facilities were clean though rather outdated and no heating - long gone are the days when I'd potter across to the shower block in my dressing gown - I now dress up to the nines just to pop to the showers only to undress again when I get there, quick shower, throw all those clothes back on and a quick dash back to Libby - thankfully with an excellent heating system!  Temperatures are certainly very low in this part of the country now with windchill factored in due to constant strong winds - I certainly miss the central heating of my bathroom!

The evening we arrived was actually calm (and clear!) and we were soon settled with a bottle of bubbly - in celebration of reaching this point in our journey - watching as dusk fell, the moon emerging and watching the numerous lighthouses twinkling. 

Atrocious weather the following day - such were the force of the winds that literally rocked Libby, lashing rain and sea mist floating around - eventually late afternoon it calmed so we had our usual familiarisation wander round!  It's a strange little place -  everything here appears a rather out-dated hotch-potch yet a friendly peaceful place.  A hotel being refurbished that looks like a princess castle with its turreted tower, the old-fashioned gift shop by the harbour housing by-gone touristy nick knacks; then by contrast a modern pottery and art gallery!  But it's up and coming!  On the edge of the village is a small development of very stylish wooden eco-homes with beautiful picture windows.  We spotted a couple of ferries but no passengers today coping with those choppy waters!  It rather feels like the end of the world, let alone the end of the mainland!  It's not quite the furthest point of northern mainland but it does boast the last house.

From our pitch we watch the seabirds and in particular the terns whose graceful flight stops abruptly as they drop like stones into the water for their prey.  There were very few garden birds except for the wagtails - they were prolific!

Thankfully the weather improved the next day so we decided on an exhilarating walk across the cliff tops from Duncansby Head for the magnificent view across to the Duncansby Stacks - lots of Fulmars resting on the cliff sides.  Amazing views across to camp site and across to all the Orkney Islands but incredibly strong winds - we certainly felt the ferocity of the Pentland Firth up there!

Campsite marked

It's a long way down !  ......

... and I've no head for heights!!!!!!!

Duncansby Stacks

 

Then on to the Whaligoe Steps.  The name Whaligoe comes from whales found washed up in that inlet and 'goe' a rocky inlet.   

Whaligoe is surrounded on three sides by near vertical 250ft cliffs and reached by a spectacular flight of steps, 365 of them built in 1792, that zigzags it's way down the face of the rock to where local fishermen brought in their catches and the women folk would carry the fish up the steps and all the way to Wick town.  The overwhelming fascination for me about the place (and admiration at the sheer hard graft of those women constantly carrying heavy baskets of fish up 365 steps) is why it was ever considered suitable as a fishing base.

Before we headed down those 345 steps (the first 20 were vandalised some years back and never replaced) we found ourselves chatting to a local resident who was very passionate in sharing his knowledge about Whaligoe. He is now self-appointed caretaker for the steps and was able to tell us so much about their history.  (As an aside, he met Billy Connolly whilst filming there when making the TV programme of his tour of Scotland - he'd also met the team from the TV programme Coast.)  He showed us a very old photo of Whaligoe as it used to be - his grandfather was the last fisherman to haul his boat out of those waters, never to be fished again. He even gave me a couple of photos.  We were left in no doubt that this little place in the history of this coastline means so much to him.   So enthusiastically and detailed was his account of his family's connections with Whaligoe in the past and his personal involvement with the Steps, the result was a truly enhanced visit for us.   

A few facts for those who wish to know more:
At the foot of the steps is a grassed platform called The Bink where the herrings were salted and barrelled - and at one end is what used to be the salt store.  There was a complicated system of winches and pulleys to get the boats out of the water for repair or protection when the weather was bad. There's a thick iron grill under which used to be a cauldron for the tar to repair the fishing boats; the lined hole in the ground, called a 'barking kettle', would be filled with water and cow's urine for cleaning their fishing nets - though we had a chuckle conjuring up the image of anyone trying to collect cow's urine.  I can't imagine such an animal would obligingly stand still while a potty was put in place!

The herring season only lasted 2 months and having been salted and barrelled, would be taken away by schooners.  It was the catches of white fish during the remainder of the year that the women would carry in creels up all those steps. We're certainly learning how tough and challenging life was for folks in these parts - inconceivably so.

It was an amazing place to be - standing on the bink surrounded by towering cliffs shutting most of the rest of the world except the view out to the ocean and where a little bit of history took place: fishermen coming in with their catch, the mending of nets and boats, herrings being salted and barrelled - a bustling hive of activity.  In a strange way it felt rather a privilege being there.

As we ascended the steps we were level with the sea birds and could hear the swooshing of their wings as they flew by so close to us;  seals were swimming in the bay below.

It was certainly a fascinating and memorable visit to a place of a bygone era.

So down.......

and down .....

and further down we go - we counting these steps???

  

view to part of  The Bink showing the 'Barking Kettle' and ruin of salt store

... and we're almost there (mmmm, the easy bit's going down!)

standing on The Bink

..... looking out to sea from The Bink

.... and back up we go

but guess it keeps us fit!! - and we know there's a great little coffee shop with delicious home made cakes as our reward!

Final stop of the day was a visit to Old Pulteney, the most northerly distillery on the Scottish mainland.  A small independent distillery which continues to this day to use traditional methods and equipment.   We've now added a 21 year old malt (voted 2012 World Whisky of the Year by the prestigious Jim Murray's Whisky Bible awards) to our growing collection of malt whiskies!

The weather improved as the day went on ending with a fine and calm evening - so trip to the Orkney Islands on the agenda for following day!

            

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