'Over the Sea to Sky......' AND Libby Needs a Band Aid

20th - 23rd Sept

We finally left Poolewe - the best day we've had yet for travelling with lots of that beautiful azure sky of the Scottish Highlands and fluffy white clouds - with of course the obligatory spatter of rain here and there!  Temperatures are still rather on the wintry side but the peace and calm of absolutely no wind is bliss.


On the road to Skye:

Skye Bridge - we didn't sail over the sea to Skye!!

First impressions of Skye:

The site on Skye is an actual working croft.  Another beautiful site, beside Loch Greshornish - with a very welcome bonus: heated  shower cubicles!!!!  

 

View down to croft and campsite (behind row of trees)

Campsite across Loch Greshornish

Early morning reflections

We had some glorious hours on the Isle of Skye. The name itself has for me always conjured up magical images, perhaps something to do with the lyrics of the many songs that romanticise Skye; perhaps the poetry written about it.  The reality did not disappoint - it's beautiful, breathtakingly so - wild, remote and excitingly rugged. I felt I was falling in love with it by the minute.   We've seen some wonderful sights for sure during the last couple of months but Skye is something else altogether. Exploring as much of the island as possible in our short stay we stood on windswept cliff tops looking out over panoramic views across to islands and along the spectacular coastline with fingers of land sprawling outward from the bay - left from the receding tide, saw its untamed awe-inspiring mountains, and uncovered some of itsfascinating history.   We saw it in all its glory - and we had sunshine!!

Strangely we'd both simultaneously come to the conclusion, as we were driving towards Skye, that we've been in such a constant state of amazement and wonder for over 2 months at all we've set our eyes on that we were verging on becoming a little blase.  Skye soon put a stop to that train of thought! 

Our travels took us around the Trotternish peninsula - 

Starting in Uig

Uig harbour

Uig bay

Driving along the coastal road we came across these piles of stones left by previous visitors and - once started, everyone puts in their little addition!  

 

'Hear no evil, See no evil, speak no evil' ??!

Certainly many hands have been very busy over time to create this accumulation!  (We came across something very similar in the Colca Canyon in Peru. )  

This has to be of canine origin!

Needless to say, I had to have my 'say'!!

We were privileged to finally spot a sea eagle.  We've seen a number of birds of prey circling overhead but sadly unable to identify them as they disappear before the binoculars are retrieved and in focus!

A better head for heights than I!

 

The awe-inspiring views of the volcanic Trotternish Ridge dominating the skyline

Couldn't resist an energetic climb part way up the Quiraing -the northern area of the Trotternish Ridge but we were unable to find the legendary giant who lives in a secret part of the rocks behind a huge keyhole-shaped opening!

"Coo-eee" spot the red dot and you've found Michael!

 

The descent - and what a difference the sun makes!

Kilt Rock with its torrent of water plunging down the vertical cliff 250' onto the rocks below

View from Kilt Rock across towards Rona island

Old Man of Storr in the distance like a giant finger pointing skyward. A single 165' pinnacle forming part of  the ridge - too late in the day to tackle the climb - that's for another visit!

evening in Portree harbour

Travelling the Central peninsula, our first stop was Jann's Tea House in Dunvegan:  such a scrumptious assortment of the most mouth-watering temptations who could resist!  We finally made our choice - Michael the apple and lemon drizzle sponge and I went for lemon curd and blueberry slice both served warmed with a huge dollop of fresh cream - and because it had been SUCH a challenge to decide we left with 4 more 'take-aways'!! 

Could you resist these??

 

Best Rocky Road ever!!!

 
... and for take aways we chose Rocky Road; Belgian choc, caramel and pear slice; treacle tart with orange;  Belgian choc, coconut and cherry slice!  After all, it did save us having to seek out coffee shops over the next few days!!

Very typical house on Skye - whitewash and bare brick combination

Typical older style of thatching using stones hung on ropes to secure the thatch

Oldest pub on Skye (1790) in Stein

Stein harbour

Windswept ruin of Trumpan church

 -  scene of one of the bloodiest episodes in Scottish history.  In 1577, the MacLeods of Dunvegan massacred 395 MacDonalds, who were trapped in St Francis Cave on Eigg, by lighting a fire in the cave entrance,  suffocating them.  In return the chief of the  MacDonalds of Uist, plotted a revenge.  On one Sunday morning in May 1578 The MacLeods from the surrounding lands had gathered for worship in Trumpan church.  Meantime, The MacDonalds silently surrounded the church, barred the door and set fire to the thatch roof. All but one girl burnt to death.  She managed to escape through the small window and raised the alarm. How brutal (and uncertain) life was back in those times.

Fairy Bridge - where according to legend, the fairy wife of a Macleod chief left to return to her own people after a marriage of a year and day - all the Fairy King would allow. She left behind both husband and child, and the acclaimed "fairy flag" of Dunvegan Castle her parting gift to her husband.


The craggy peaks of the magnificent Cuillin Hills forming part of the central peninsula and some of the oldest rocks in the world.

Cuillin hills in the distance

Road through the Cuillins .......................

 

  

Then we got really close up and personal......  the Cuillins are awesome; overbearing; towering above us as we drove along the road through the side of the mountains. In the distance, the vehicles travelling on the curling thin line of the road ahead of us and behind us looked like  little insects scuttling along narrow ledges! 

James Ross Fountain in the town of Broadford

'Beached'

Armadale by dusk

The southern part of Skye, aptly known as 'The Garden of Skye'  is less wild with a wider variety of plant life and is noticeably much more wooded due to its milder climate. Though we were never far from the view across to those Cuillin Hills!

We were looking for somewhere to 'wild' camp overnight and thankfully found one just in time - any further and we would be in the 'drink'!  There was a perfect little pull-in just as we reached the harbour and to my delight I noticed the studio of Grumpy George across the way - a well-known island photographer.  That was a happy accident - I was delighted to see him make an appearance at his studio the following morning and later privileged to enjoy a couple of hours of fun and informal 'tuition' from him!  What a bonus!

The following day we decided to take a chance on taking a route that on the map appeared as a fine line indicating it was not even a 'B' road and road signage indicated it was not suitable for caravans - well, we're a motor home!!  This was certainly something else!  We've become accustomed to tackling single track roads as passing places are frequent but this was the narrowest ever, winding sharply, up and down with a 20% incline like a switchback but Libby took it brilliantly - the driver didn't do too badly either!!

We spotted the ruin of Dunscaich castle perched on a headland stretching out into the water which beckoned us!  As we'd already passed a place to pull off the road, we drove on until we found somewhere to turn around - no parking on this narrow road!

 

A walk across boggy ground, beach and scramble up rocks.....

......  and we're there

Didn't trust my balancing skills to creep along the narrow ledge (VERY long drop below!) so gave the last few steps a miss!

So worth the clamber for the spectacular views...........

Alternative Land's End?

There's that red blob again!!

Back over the rocks to Libby ....... and when the trouble starts!!

To resume our route, necessitated turning around again!  We were learning a 23 feet long vehicle isn't quite so manoeuvrable as a car!  The first attempt at reversing up a track was to no avail as the back end of Libby was threatening to take down a telegraph pole as Michael attempted a sharp turn back onto the narrow road.  I was at the rear of Libby checking Michael wasn't about to reverse into the trees and flatten the bikes on the back when on second attempt he managed to turn into the road, avoiding the telegraph pole, but the front wheels went over the side of the road causing Libby to slew uncontrollably on the sticky mud under the grass verge straight (well, perhaps not quite straight!!) into sturdy wire fencing - that was it!!  Libby was stuck.  Each time Michael tried to reverse out of the pickle, the wheels spun further into the mud and she slew further across the fence - oh our poor Libby - how much damage was that wretched fence doing to her front end??!  

Such was the noise of the revving engine and spinning wheels it alerted the guy living nearby who appeared just  as we were both looking at the sorry scene wondering where on earth we were going to find something to put under the wheels to give them some grip!  
 

 

While he and Michael disappeared to fetch pieces of wood, shovels and buckets of sand and anything else that might help, I was left as an alternative to the 'warning triangle' (worked well - I had my bright tangerine jacket on!!) to any vehicles coming around the corner. The first couple of attempts to free Libby were hopeless; wheels were still spinning and Libby sliding further across that beastly wire - by now we had 2 cars in the road one side of us, a motor home on the other. I'm pleased to report all very helpful and understanding drivers who added to the muscle needed to push Libby and finally we she was free and on the road again.  We limped away feeling very sorry for ourselves and saddened that Libby now needs a visit to the repair shop.  Though we were extremely relieved to be back on the road once again facing the right way and on our way to Onich on the mainland.

We decided without reservation Skye is a 'must' on the list for a return visit to give this Isle the time it deserves.  During our travels I also found a gem of a guidebook written by two islanders highlighting the lesser known areas which might otherwise lay undiscovered so we're further convinced of a return to this wonderful Isle!

 

Poser!!!