THE PEAK DISTRICT 16 JULY - 3 AUGUST

Dovedale Valley - Ilam 
(16 - 22 July)

Where 4 days turned into a week, so lovely was this spot.   At the southern tip of the Peak District National Park we were in the heart of the White Peak district surrounded by spectacular hills, rivers and woodland and all its wonderful walks on our doorstop.  We've stayed at some lovely sites but this really did get the gold star.   Ilam Caravan Park, a National Trust site and beautiful green oasis, with just 20 pitches is picturesquely set in the grounds of Ilam Hall on the banks of the River Manifold - ideal running opportunities!    Within the grounds of Ilam Hall is a delightful little tea room overlooking the Italian Gardens and beyond to the little ancient Church of the Holy Cross, and stunning views across to Dovedale and Thorpe Cloud - which from a distance has the appearance of a flat top.  So much to indulge in.

Old word for settlement: thorpe;  old word for hill: clod (now cloud)

The original Hall was built by the Port family in the 16th century and after 250 years was sold to David Pike-Watts.  On his death, the Hall passed to his daughter, Mary, who married Jesse Watts-Russell who had the new Gothic style Hall built in 1821.  In 1927 it was sold to Mr Blackhouse who converted it into a restaurant but this closed in the 1930's and most of the building was demolished before Sir Robert McDougall bought the estate and donated it to the National Trust on condition that "the  buildings were to be dedicated to the service of the youth of the world as an international youth hostel".  It was officially opened in 1935. 

Ilam Hall, Italian Gardens and (flat-topped) Thorpe Cloud in the distance

Manifold River within Ilam Hall grounds

What a view to wake up to

One of our vocal neighbours!

On the doorstep - Bunster Hill with Thorpe Cloud in the distance

Church of The Holy Cross -  St Bertram's burial site and place of pilgrimage

Sitting pretty

Saxon Crosses

Detail of Font

David Pike Memorial

St Bertram's Tomb 

St Bertram, a prince of the ancient borough of Mercia in the 8th Century, renounced his title and heritage to dedicate his life to Christ in prayer and meditation and is said to have converted many folk to Christianity.  He spent the latter part of his life in a cave in Ilam where he lived until his death.  This shrine became a point of pilgrimage, being reputed to be able to work miraculous cures and still, today, people visit this shrine.

Just a stone's throw away is the tiny and very picturesque village of Ilam with its cuckoo-clock Swiss style houses.  I dropped into conversation with a lady working in her garden and learnt not all is quite as idyllic as would first appear however - she has lived there very happily for over 50 years and knows well the drawbacks!  As all the houses are listed they come with the usual intrinsic limitations on maintenance etc.  Being so far from any shops she always keeps a well-stocked larder.  The gardens looked so beautifully immaculate, spilling over with colour, but everyone is expected to maintain their gardens to a high standard for the sake of the constant stream of admiring visitors to the village - and for the same reason they also have to be thoughtful about where they hang out their laundry (there are no back gardens).  This lady told me her son rang her one day to say "Dad's pants are on Facebook!" So for anyone enjoying their privacy this is perhaps not the best choice of location, beautiful as it is.

Mary Watts-Russell Memorial (1940)

Ilam primary school

  






The village originally stood where the church continues to stand but was moved by Jesse Watts Russell to improve the view when he rebuilt the Hall! He remodelled the village based on the houses he'd seen and liked on a visit to Switzerland. 

How amazing to have all this on our doorstep.   

Stones and The Cloud

A little walk - that was the plan.  Off toward Thorpe Cloud, across fields scattered with sheep, surrounded by steep tumbling pastures brought us to the riverside for a little meander to the Dovedale stepping stones.  

River Dove

However, across the famous stones brought us to the foot of  Thorpe Cloud rising to 1,000'. 

What views there must be from up there - it was too much a temptation.  There didn't appear to be a pathway as such - it was either clamber up over rocks or attack the steep grassy slopes so we did a bit of both 

Still going and nearly there........

My nerve gave out at the foot of that last rocky outcrop with its almost vertical ascent - that was it for me!  

I'll just lie here and enjoy the view!

Michael however, surefooted as he is, scrambled to the summit and found himself gazing at a 360 degree view.   Once reunited, and having taken a breather, we then picked our way on a route that took us in a circle around Thorpe Cloud as we made our descent.  

Start of our descent ...........

.... and rather happy to be going downward!

then over the fields back to camp.  Another lovely day drew to its close with a convivial evening spent with a couple of neighbouring campers who had shown an interest in Poppy which prompted an invite to share a couple of bottles of wine - great end to a grand day.

Ashbourne  - A very stormy night brought torrential rain that continued well into the day.  With plans to extend our stay we needed to stock up on provisions however.  With no shops within miles, we hopped on the little Community Minibus that ran a service for campers into Ashbourne, an old market town with its medieval street pattern, hidden alleys and historic buildings.  

St Oswald's Church (1241) - Detail of ceiling above Altar and Chancel

... and it's resident church mouse 

Dovedale to Milldale

A  9 mile circular walk, mostly under the cooling canopy of trees, led us alongside the River Dove and alongside some pretty amazing limestone formations towering above us.

 Money Tree

Lion head rock

Swirls

Dove Holes - natural caves

Looking for a new home?  Might be needed if that elusive driving licence doesn't appear!

A climber sheltering from the rain in a cave discovered what was eventually found to be a hoard of late iron age and Roman coins.  Coins of this era, as far as is known, have never before been found in caves so this has excited the archaeologists even further


Milldale - a pretty little hamlet with a handful of stone cottages.  

Here we rested over our packed lunch whilst being entertained watching children squealing with delight and as they had the time of their lives playing in the shallow waters of the river - how children love water!   Refreshed, we returned the same way we'd come but amazing how different the scenery can be viewed from the opposite direction.

Workout = cream tea!

Finally back to my running - great run along the riverside one morning.  Michael had gone for a walk across to the other side of the river and I decided, in my wisdom, having finished my run, to retrace my steps and follow his route in the hope of finding him - maybe!  With legs rebelling at further walking,  I crossed the bridge over the river and was faced with a long flight of stone steps up into the woods!  Well, there can't be many of those I thought so keep going, legs further rebelling at every haul up each step.  Well, those steps just kept on coming, a few down, many ascending until the river was way down below me!  Surely this stepped route should soon level out!  Before those tired old legs finally gave out in protest, the descending steps increased in number and eventually brought me level with the river once more and eventually into the lower grounds of Ilam Hall and back to camp - where Michael was sitting cool and relaxed in the sunshine wondering quite where I'd got to!!  That'll teach me!  Lunched and rested we took a leisurely stroll along the level riverside pathway where the gradient soon picked up again and we found ourselves climbing until we came out into the open with magnificent views across to Thorpe Cloud and surrounding peaks - this truly is a wonderful part of the England, gets top marks in my book.  After all that, I felt sure I deserved just a little cream tea - didn't I?  

Cream tea anyone ?

Are we playing Hide & Seek ?

Back out from under the radar!

Just occasionally I could shed a tear when leaving an area and Ilam was one of those with such a cosy, friendly site and so much to enjoy on our doorstep.   We've had no phone or Internet signal and no TV - radio and newspapers only during the week. Couldn't do without all this high tech stuff  now we're all hooked up to it but it's been rather liberating for a week!  Today we're travelling on to Buxton (23 July).

The Spa Town of Buxton

Renowned for its natural spring water, beautiful Georgian architecture and rich history we really enjoyed our day here.

The Pavilion and 'Old Crocks' rally

The beautiful Edwardian Opera House
(Frank Matcham)

Filling up with the spring water from St Anne's Well
'A Well of Living Waters'

A little retail therapy within the Cavendish Arcade, the restored Grade II listed Neo-Classical thermal baths, retaining much of the beautifully delicate original Minton tiling

The incredible glass barrel vaulted ceiling

Original plunge bath - wouldn't want to try this nowadays under the inquisitive eyes of shoppers!

Afternoon tea in the Royal Pavilion Gardens was followed by a gentle stroll around the Pavilion Gardens and ornamental lakes

We found the tiny but beautiful historic St Anne's Church tucked down behind some houses - this said to be the oldest building in Buxton

"Rest ye a while"

It had a very appealing and unusual ornate interior

We ended our day with a meal in town before hitting the 1 mile hike back up the hill to our campsite from where we had lovely views across to Buxton.

The following day we were on the move to make way for the huge wedding marquee being erected and camping wedding guests taking over the site for the weekend!
A novel but rather fun place for a wedding reception!

Chatsworth House
A very full day exploring both this famous historic stately home and the 105 acre grounds.   

'Carefree Man' (Alan Jones)

Delft Flower Vase

Not quite the style of buffet table I'm familiar with!

The walls of an entire gallery are covered with 659 ceramic panels. Created by Jacob van der Beugel, these represent the DNA profiles of the Duke and Duchess, their son and his wife. Certainly a unique take on the traditional portrait!!  

Emperor Fountain and Canal Pond

Overall, apart from the stunning Fountain and Canal Pond, we were rather disappointed with the 'gardens'.  However, we did enjoy ferreting out some rather attention-grabbing sculptures: 

"That woman gets in everywhere..... Who is she??! "

Angela Connor sculptures: I don't think the first needs any introduction;
the fine looking male is Lord William Burlington

Though both happy we'd finally managed to see this famous stately home, the opulent grandeur and magnificence of the house, though impressive was almost overwhelming in its rich ornate decor and furnishings.  So full to overflowing with artefacts and collections made by generations down the years it was too much to appreciate in one visit.  

Another wedding!

Never having come across a wedding on a campsite before, we couldn't believe it when we landed up at our site just outside Bakewell, to discover a huge area taken up for a wedding reception with over 200 guests!  And all campers invited! Situated in a beautiful spot, so time to rest our weary legs (plus our minds brimming over with images and sights of our travels) and simply enjoy the beautiful rural views and watch the comings and goings of the wedding party. 

Ever-changing landscapes from our 'back door'

Bakewell
We spent a leisurely Sunday exploring the nooks and crannies of this lovely old market town which included tucking into a traditional  Sunday Roast!  

British Legion Memorial Gardens

Chain stitch? 

All Saints' Parish Church

Monument to Sir George Manners and his wife Grace

In 1636 Lady Manners founded a free-school for the poor children of Bakewell

Bakewell Pudding
Not to be confused with Bakewell tart, we found numerous pudding shops selling the famous Bakewell Pudding - a nest of flaky pastry with a deliciously moreish filling, best enjoyed with lashings of custard or cream!  Just rings the changes from those cream teas I guess!

Castleton (27 July - 3 Aug)
A never-ending treasure trove of walks and hikes surrounding the delightful little town of Castleton. How could we resist - our planned 3 day stay developed into 8 and even then it was with the promise to return one day and enjoy many more walks across those beckoning hills - never have we enjoyed walking so much.  We did move from our original site however which, though offering all mod cons, felt more like sitting in a car park with all its tarmac and hard standings and barely a blade of grass to be seen - it seemed sacrilege in such a beautiful place. Also nestled down amongst trees we could see absolutely nothing of our wonderful surroundings.  Just a few yards up the road we discovered a little 5 pitch site on a farm with no facilities but our own on-board facilities serve us perfectly well and more importantly we could enjoy virtually 360 degree views. Happy bunnies.

Castleton nestles within Hope Valley which runs along the boundary of the two areas of the Peak District - the limestone outcrops and deep cut pastures in the White Peak and the more dramatic gritstone moorland of the northerly Dark Peak.   What a gem we found.

High Street

Tea Rooms and School

12th Century St Edmund's Church
Intriguing to find names of the occupants from 300 years ago carved into the box pews

Monday:
Our initial meander of Castleton lead us to clamber up the steep zigzag pathway to reach the remains of the Norman Peveril Castle - not built so much as a fortress but to keep watch over the area with its lead and silver mining industries and the hunting of deer and wild boar in the Royal Forest

... and from where we could look across to spectacular views of the Great Ridge with Mam Tor, an iron age hill fort,  rearing up to 1,700', dominating the western edge of the Ridge. 

Mam Tor - the Celtic name for Mother Mountain - often referred to today as Mother Hill

 The Great Ridge

Mam Tor

Centuries ago a huge section of Mam Tor slipped away leaving the steep face of today.  There is still occasional movement during heavy periods of rain which causes further landslips creating mini hills giving Mam Tor the name 'Shivering Mountain' by the locals.  

Tuesday:
Hike 1 - Mam Tor our goal

Heading for the Great Ridge across the village across the fields, we noticed evidence of the ridge and furrow system of medieval agricultural methods.  You learn something every day:  apparently fields were named according to their location often followed by the word  'Butts' which refers to fields ploughed in strips - I guess this must have lead to some rather interesting and humorous results like this local one: "Breedy Butts"!

First leg: heading for the pathway up Hollins Cross 

Panoramic views opened up below us as we ascended.  Snowdon was a challenge but this gradient became deceivingly steep making the climb feel relentless!

I'm getting left behind!! ...

... and it's still such a long way to go !

Well, we've made the Ridge.  Now for Mam Tor

View from Summit of Mam Tor - "Where's the cream tea ?!"

Feels good !!

Time to enjoy the view

This is most definitely NOT the easiest way back

down from that peak up there!

"Come on ol' dear - it's not that bad....!" 

This shows clearly the 'mini hills' caused by landslips

Not only do the landslips create these mini hills but were the cause of the loss of the Stockport to Sheffield road which was swept away by a landslide in 1974.  After the battle was lost to keep the road open, it was finally closed for good in 1979 - the photos speak for themselves!

Michael  checking out the layers of futile repair efforts  

Having finally made our descent and picked our way around the landslips to terra firma, we were heading on the long road back to the village when we came upon the Odin Mine which was once rich in lead ore.  Apparently one of the oldest in Derbyshire and descended only by experienced potholers nowadays.

Not reckoning on going in any further!

The iron crushing ring and millstone opposite the mine

OK, you've proved your point!

Wild Scabious

The section of Ridge covered today - the other section another day!

Wednesday - 

We took it easy today but I was in for a treat - a gift from Michael of a Blue John Stone ring.  A mineral mined from one of the 4 caves nearby Mam Tor and the only known place in the world where Blue John is is found.  

Initially discovered by a Frenchman who named it Bleu Jeune (young blue) 

Thursday -

Hike 2 - time to hit the rest of that Ridge!

Time to take in the view!

We heard the loud long wail of a siren followed by a thunderous explosion which echoed around the peaks and spotted the resulting white cloud from the blasting in the quarry up behind the cement works way off in the distance.  This was followed by the 'all clear' siren. That cleared up the mystery of the sirens and explosive noise we'd heard on a daily basis since our arrival! 

  

Spot Poppy!

Summit of Losehill

Along the Ridge toward Back Tor

and I get to meet MY lone tree - a visible pinprick on the Ridge from way down below

Captions welcome ..................

And here we go again............ these descents are more challenging than the ascents!

Back down to earth, we were making our way through the fields and back to camp when a chap, who we took to be the farmer, and a young lad were herding 3 cows towards us down a narrow lane. We stood at a fork in the lane assuming they would cross in front of us so we could go forward when suddenly the cows did an about turn in unison and headed back from whence they'd come!  The chap and his son were hikers who'd been walking tentatively behind the cows and managed to make their escape as the cows turned at the fork - leaving us to take up the challenge and follow the beasts!  Neither of us were too sure how spooked the animals were being free of the security of their field and finding themselves in this very narrow lane, but it was with huge relief that as we neared, heart rate increasing by the second, they moved from the middle of the pathway and gathered in a huddle giving us just enough room to pass. Eyes forward, breath held and I must admit to my pace quickening the wider the gap became between them and us!!  Not a comfortable place to be!
We just made it back before the Heavens opened and the rain fell.
We may not be mountain goats, but we're sure beginning to feel like them!

Friday -
A bit of fun today when we headed over to Speedwell Cavern - a 200 year old lead mine and one of the four caves in this area.  Having descended the 100+ steps which brought us 450 metres below the surface, we were handed hard hats before boarding a small, shallow boat and ferried along an underground level driven by the miners which lead deep into the mine and finally opened up into a large chamber.  The level took 11 years to drive and was a fruitless attempt to intercept a rich vein of lead ore.  It was a cramped, cold, wet and dark experience, especially sitting in the boat going through very narrow arching tunnels but fascinating listening to our guide explaining how it must have been carving out those tunnels and relating the story of the mine and lives of the miners. 

Saturday -

The biggest event today was the news that the DVLA, 11 weeks after initial application, now required further information from Michael's GP before they consider whether or not to issue him a renewed driving licence!  A letter and email followed in hot response from us, requesting they ignore request for category to be included which would permit Michael to drive a vehicle over 3½ Ton - we'll stick to our motor home without any upgrade in payload thank you! So now we wait again!

Sunday -

This was our last day in Castleton.

We walked up to Treak Cavern - the home of the Blue John stone. 

Treak Cavern tucked into the hillside 

A rare variety of fluorspar, Blue John stone occurs in thin veins and is only mined by hand as the shock of blasting could disturb its delicate crystalline structure.  It has been mined here for over 200 years and loved for its ornamental value and its stunning colours and shades ranging from white and yellow to hues of purple and blue. There are strict limitations nowadays as to how much is mined and only jewellery continues to be made. Castleton was full of little shops selling the most exquisite items of individual Blue John stone jewellery - hence my lovely ring purchased a few days earlier! 

The cave was like a beautifully coloured cathedral with the most amazing stalactites and stalagmites and multi-coloured flowstone.  I even joined the kiddies afterwards and polished my own little piece of Blue John!

Spot the dragon's head!

birth of a stalagmite

These pics don't do the this underworld brilliance any justice - my little pocket camera struggled in such an environment!





















Must be Sunday roast on the menu!  We returned to the pub we'd found earlier in the week tucked up a quiet little street and sitting in the warm sunshine enjoyed a home-cooked roast beef lunch with all the trimmings. 

Castleton - described as the "most educational of all English landscapes".  These few days have certainly served up some brilliant experiences and I would heartily agree with this statement. We have found Castleton steeped in history and geological and geographical fascination.  

We were feeling rather low toward the end of the day at the prospect of leaving this delightful little corner of England.  We decided on a final walk across the fields in the peace and quiet of the early evening as our final farewell to this gem of an area which we're sure to return to one day.

  "A rocky outcrop on a lonely moor

Stirs an ancient sense of place

Belonging to a time of long before

    where roamed the spirits of an older race"